Rear end strip

Following this thread I’m going to give the UJ a check which means pulling the swing arm off

Just had a quick look see I have a couple of questions

  1. Is the slot in the axle there to un screw it or just to hold it while you do the nut up?
  2. What size is the axle nut? I measured it at 28mm AF but that appears to be a bastard size when I went looking for a suitable sized socket.
  3. How does the pivot pin arrangement on the swing arm work. I took off what appears to be only decorative caps to reveal a 14mm hex plug. Is there another threadded pin beneath that?


All the fasteners have had a good penetrant squirt just to make sure they know that they will be coming out

Yes, the slot is just used to hold the spindle, the swinging arm itself is slotted on that side and you have to loosen the bolt at the end of the swinging arm to free the spindle.


The axle nuts on mine (Le-Mans and V65) are 24mm, doesn’t mean to say that yours are not 28 of course.

The swinging arm pivot pins are behind the caps, they’re 10mm allen heads on mine, again, doesn’t mean to say that yours aren’t 14mm .

It’s an easy job to whip the swinging arm off, just be careful when re-installing the pins.

The threaded pins have an extended section which engages with the bearing inner race in the swinging arm. They are the pivot pins and allow you to adjust the bearing clearance/preloaded and also to centralise the swinging arm. The outer chrome caps are the locknuts which lock the adjusters. They usually have a hole in the centre so that you can hold the adjusters with an Allen key as you tighten the locknuts.

and they are a very fine thread

And we do have a tap…

It’s one of the jobs where the Haynes 850/950 manual is handy. Although it’s a different bike it’s pretty much the same once you’re down to swing arm removal and replacement e.g. measuring the length of bolt protruding in order to align the swingarm.
Did this single handed the first time and Haynes meant that it worked well.
Where are you based?
All the best


and get cross threaded and knackered very easy
i have a tap if required

And you need a ring spanner from EBay so you do . Go on treat yourself.


I’ve always managed to tighten the locking nuts with an open end adjustable spanner.


Replying to everyone at once!

No holes in me nuts
I guess I get the preload a knats whisker light spin the lock nuts on and “give 'em a twitch” followed by a torque check?

If the threads are knackered it looks like I have some options re taps to recover them - cheers

I was planning on taking the bevel box off

I’ll try and track down the 850/950 manual
I have the one for the model following my bike which shows the strip but helpfully not the rebuild

I’m based in Gainsborough North of Lincoln

I’m not too thrilled with the shallow socket headed bolts holding the calliper and shocks on but hopefully they won’t put up too much resistance

Thanks everyone

Unless your bike has been sitting at the bottom of a salt-water lake for the past few decades you should have no problem getting it adrift. Bit of penentrating oil and maybe a light grilling from a heat gun will do wonders.

Hi Tris, as we speak I have only to look up at the bookshelf above the 'puter to find a Haynes Manual still in wrapper and doing nowt. Yours for £5 + £1 post if you are interested.Cheers, Gerry.

Thanks for the offer Gerry but after a bit of a think and a search of my 'puter I rediscovered the workshop manual I had downloaded about 18 months ago.

Watch this space though as surgery should commence on New Years Eve once I lay my hands on a couple of tools tomorrow

Mole grips and a hammer?
Works for me,
Best of luck

When you refit the bevel box, line it up by temporarily fitting the wheel shaft before tightening the four nuts onto the studs

WAHOO - rear end off with out too much agro and only one lot of blood letting when I whacked my ear on the jack

Copper slip all over the place plus (I think) a squirt of gear oil on the UJ so all looks good. None of the bearings graunching (sp) so I’m very happy

2 questions though

Carrier bearing looks fine and no sign of it having spun. However the UJ pulled straight out - it wasn’t an interference fit. The question is should there be a wavy washer in there somewhere to give the bearing pre-load or is the length by gearbox/UJ/carrier bearing cleverly defined?
I measure the standoff for the SA pivot pins and got about 0.8mm - 1mm difference between the LH & RH sides. Should I put it back with the same dimensions of even them up ie shift it over 0.5mm?
Cheers Alltris2013-12-31 16:02:48

I’ve had four big block Guzzis and have never seen any wavy washer between U/J and bearing, The U/J’s on mine have always been a bit more of a push fit rather than interference fit, the latter suggests to me a bit more of a heave required to get them apart or together again.
The swinging arm pivot pins should be equidistant, it’s a fine thread so should be easy enough to adjust.

What Doug says. Isn’t it great when there’s only a tiny bit of work needs doing, no nasty surprises, peace of mind for a few blissful moments til you wonder where that oval washer came from. it can be a pig to get it all back together, offering up the swing arm to the pivots and holding the UJ in at the same time, take your time and use all four eyes and three hands and it’ll be fine. Have fun!