Rear Wheel removal Nevada

I bought a '95 Nevada 750 a few months back and decided to renew the tyres. I found the removal of the rear wheel very difficult and ended up dismantling half of the rear of the bike. Is it possible to remove the rear wheel without taking off the bevel box as I ended up doing?
Cheers DavyP

The Nevada Classic ie, the left shock, brake torque bolt, caliper, hanger and exhaust have to be removed and the tyre deflated if the bevel box is not to be messed with. Also, the bike to be elevated to allow the wheel to be lowered out.

No knowledge myself on this, but you can get an Italian manual from here

The picture on page 22 suggests it should be possible.
This site is good for manuals, handbooks etc.

Putting it back in is the hassle.
You need 1 to hold and turn the wheel whilst a second person pokes the rubbers in place with a long 'lecis screwdriver.
Crap cush drive design.

I think the Nevada is different from many other small blocks as it has wire wheels and the disc on the left, rather than the right side as part of the bevel box assembly.

Don, Used to be spokes on the left and cast on the right. However, all injection models are on the left. Not looked at the V9 mind.

Hi Folks,
Yes all of this will be a bit of a bind if I’m trying to fix a puncture by the side of the road. So let’s hope I don’t get one while crossing the Pyrenees this May.
Thanks Cabernet!. All of the above is true except I found that raising the bike isn’t necessary. The rear chrome part of the mudguard holding the rear light and numberplate is only held on by three M6 bolts which can be removed and the mudguard swung to the side with the wiring still connected. The wheel can then be pulled out straight back. I also managed this without deflating the tyre (just!).
I would suggest to anyone, however, that they check & ensure these bolts can be removed as they will be rusty and a broken bolt in the captive nuts would be a nightmare. I’ve replaced mine with stainless well coated with Copperslip.
Cheers Davp

Carry a tin of puncture repair sealant and a small handpump for such eventualities!

Hi Ian,
I found that difficult too! However, on the Nevada, I found if I put the just the wheel in place on the spindle without the spacer & brake hanger I could do the spinning & poking single handed. When the cush drive is fully engaged the wheel will just about stay put when you carefully remove the spindle again and then re-insert with the spacer and brake hanger in place.
Cheers Davyp

Hi Don,
You bet!
But can I ask? What experience anyone has of using “Goop” which I understand one puts in the tyre and it is supposed to stay liquid and will seal small punctures immediately if they occur?
Cheers Davyp

Never tried the gloop you put in to prevent punctures, but have used the repair a puncture goo. You do need a pump to inflate the tyre.
It worked fine. The tin said don’t exceed 50. That lasted about 20 miles and was doing 80 by the time I got home

I’ve used the puncture repair stuff too. It says it’s not for tube tyres but seemed to work fine. We didn’t have far to go home so I just used the gas in the can to inflate the tyre. There are different size cans for different tyres.

As a former M/c courier I have done 10s of thousands of miles on gloop, slime and ultra seal, but only with tubeless tyres. What does the carb nevada run? A tubed tyre needs a different formula.

Hi Cabernet,
The Nevada has wire spoked wheels so it has tubed tyres. The “Goop” literature claims that it is equally suitable for both tubed and tubeless tyres.
Cheers Davyp

Thanks for that DayP.
I use BT45’s on my lil Breva and find they have run OK to my destination even when flat.

Hi Ian,
I Don’t think I fancy riding to Alicante on a flat tyre! Even just part of the way!
Cheers Davyp

By the by. I too love BT45s on my Breva 750, but not on my Nevada ie. The weight distribution is too light on the front, and with the centre hard compound I feel it would be prone to locking as my VX800 used to. As on the VX, I run Mich Lazertech up front with a BT45 rear.