I am in the process of resurrecting my T3 Cali, it has been on SORN for 10+ years. So, I have replaced the integrated master cylinder (which had decided to leak brake fluid to get my attention. I am going to replace the seals on all the calipers. Which brings me on to brake fluid, I wonder if the type compatible with DOT3,4 and 5 as sold by some Guzzi parts suppliers is still a great paint stripper. Is synthetic fluid better than mineral? I would like to get away from the paint stripping variety which used to mean DOT 5?
I also plan to replace all the seals in the carbs after getting them ultrasonically cleaned.
Replace all the fuel lines clean filters.
Change oil and filter and transmission /bevel box oil. New tyres of course.
When it comes to starting, I was going to use a syringe to put some 3 in 1 into the cylinders via the plug holes beforehand and spin it over.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Cheers
If you are changing much of the braking system it will be empty so you can fill it fresh with what you want, or can get. As I understood it, the older, Glycol based fluids were well hazardous to a paint finish, the more âmodernâ ones silicon based, so less nasty in that respect. But rule 1 is donât splash anything over your paint, so thatâs use what you want and can get. Just donât mix them is, I believe, still the rule of thumb. Manuals from T3 times recommended DOT4 as I recall, and thereâs no sin in using that today. There are some technical considerations between DOT specs as regard to heat and tendency to absorb water, but for a T3 in the UK the former is academic, surely, and keeping water away from your braking internals is good sense in any language.
When it comes to refurbing calipers, the bleed nipples are generally the big worry. Slowly, slowly and check each one is coming out clean before you put your parts order in.
All your carb service items can be got from either Eurocarbs, or Gutsibits. Thatâs assuming standard VHB30âs. Some carb body parts are now scarce, so some users champion PHF30 replacements. Shrugs. Plenty of VHBâs about, putting in big mileages. And plenty of spare VHBâs in Guzzisti sheds, if you have need.
Changing main oils is surely a given after standing. You can get mineral of the right weights. Or - as some will tell you - modern synthetics are better. Your bike will tell you. Opinions grow on trees. After a period of standing, you might even consider a sacrificial oil change, for the engine (at least) after a good warm-up.
3-in-1 for starting? If youâre worried about the bores, get something like that in before you even think about starting and - after a while - gently rock it, and turn it over manually (rear wheel, in gear, plugs out).
HTH
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The bleed nipples are all free ,lucky me. I have owned the bike from new, so carbs are original.
I have 82,000 miles on the clock âŚAlways used 20/50.The oil is Penrite Classic 20/50 with 600 miles on it, still very clean on the dipstick! To be safe I will dump that think on a sacrificial change. I will head for the local motor factor for brake fluid tomorrow.
Thanks for your response
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âThe bleed nipples are all freeâ
Thatâs a result!
You were lucky on the bleed nipples.
One other consideration on an older T3 Cali is the state of the bores as these are chrome lined and likely to be getting worn after 82K miles. Look for shiny flecks in the oil seems to be the general suggestion.
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It is absolutely necessary to try to lube the bores before the first dry scrape of the cast iron pisiton rings. I would suggest a spray down the plughole of one of the teflon/silicon âmaintenance lubesâ.
Btw Plz NOT WD40 which is not designed to lubricate and is only slippery aas a coincidence like cooking oil or furniture polish. If you donât know WD40 was designed just to displace water (hence WD) off 1950s atomic missiles in silos.
Yes, that has been lurking in my thoughtsâŚAll I can do is check for any debris when I drain the âoldâ oil and lube the bores .
My regular squirt of GT85 to the bleed nipples paid off, I will smear the threads with a tiny amount of copperslip on re-assembly.
Sorry Iâm late to this party and I hope not too late.
I came across somewhere that you should NOT use silicone brake fluid ( i.e. DOT5 ) in Brembo systems because they use natural rubber in their seals. The silicone will attack your nice new seals. I canât remember where I came across it now, but it was sufficiently reliable that it stuck in my mind; possibly even Brembo themselves. I was about to refill a freshly built set-up with DOT5 until I found it. Guzziology has the same warning. DOT 5.1 is different and not silicone based, so thatâs ok and Brembo even sell that themselves.
Hope Iâve not just ruined your day.