setting igniton timing

hi i have1991 le mans help req for timing r/h tdc and l/h tdc are marked as d and s retarded and advanced are just lines but there are more line than them before the d /s can i work it out by the number of teath moved on the fly wheel or how do you fit a timing disc with out removing the alternator assy thanks for you help

Hi there,
I tend to set them static. Using a strobe and checking full advance doesn’t get me much more than a headache :astonished: Other may disagree.
These may be useful in your reading on the topic.
There are factory manuals available elsewhere on this site.
Good luck

thanks for that guzzi brat but they do not tell me which marks to use as i said thre are more than 3 for right and left

You should find the D and S are top dead centre on each piston, the one just above them is a static timing mark, (about 6 degrees) and the one above that is about 33 degrees, (full advance). Other lines are for assembling the flywheel usually. PS, I use a timing disc printed on card from the internet and stick it to the alternator rotor with a ring of blue-tack, works well enough.

think one is firing - one is tdc and next is full advance around 5 teeth furter on (Ithink)

The D is for the right cylinder and the S is left.
As said above, you should find 3 marks - Top dead Centre, static timing and fully advanced timing. in that order as you rotate the engine.
I use a Newtronics ignition rather than points so the only option is to use a strobe on full advance (approx 5000 revs). You need a fairly decent one and paint the lines with a bit of white paint.
I always find I run out of adjustment to get the 2 sides spot on and have to split the difference, one a bit advanced and one slightly retarded.

+1 for Don :smiley:,
I’ve also got a Newtronic system on a 91 1000s, both sides are bang on when strobed at full advance, (never got that with points).

If contact breakers (?), I also just did static, on the ‘D’ or ‘S’ lines on flywheel.

Whenever I tried a strobe on it, because there’s so much slack in the drive train to the distributor body the lines just wander up and down so pretty meaningless for accuracy really.

If you strobe it on the full advance line it’s a lot steadier, you just have to chase the bike down the driveway :laughing:


:laughing: …been there…x