Not sure why but my brake lever on the handlebar of my 1980 T3 occasionally has excessive travel before the brakes bite. I have had the discs checked with clocks (dial test indicators for the purists!) to see if they are running out of true and pushing back the caliper pistons but it seems they are running true.
Anyone else had similar problems?
All the best,
David
sticky master cylinder or low brake fluid
Brake fluid level is at maximum. May need to change master cylinder? It feels as if it is not fully bled but I am as sure as I can be that it is.
Strap the lever back overnight.If it still feels slack put cloth around the banjo bolt, apply lever and crack open slightly the banjo bolt then tighten.Air can get trapped there as it can be the highest point.
You can adjust them with the small grub screw BUT they do tend to come back a way, My V1000 has always benn this way and always worked always passed MOT
Had this once with worn wheel bearings. Run out didn’t show up on a DTI with the wheel in the air, but under load and in running conditions it was enough to push the brake pistons in a little.
Bikeralw2013-07-18 13:48:55
New wheel bearings recently. I will try the quick banjo crack on Saturday.
All the best!
New pads? Also you have disturbed the pistons by pushing them back, now they will need to readjust themselves back up to the minimum amount of movement, until then lever travel will be longer than ‘normal’. Then when it’s all bedded in, all of a sudden it hardens up and you need extra long fingers to get around the lever properly
Appendix ~ having said that, make sure the M/C piston is returning fully, re “sticky master cylinder” above. The grub screw is for setting a bit of a gap for free play twixt lever ball end and the end of piston. (Which incidentally should also have a bit of grease between 'em.) Did you know also and as well as, that the Allen screw it pivots on is adjustable (locknut on underside) to control vertical sloppiness? Again should be a likkle bit loose to make sure it’s free. Under the head of the screw should be a wavy spring washer which is meant to take out the slack.
Well tried pumping the lever until everything was really firmed up and then cracking the banjo union at the end of the master cylinder where the hose is connected. Fluid came out but sadly the brake is still the same. I have noticed that there is a brown fluid wetting the lever pivot point so I think the master cylinder seals are leaking and allowing air in.
Possibly a new master cylinder is needed. I cannot relate the one offered by Steine Dinse to the one fitted to my bike and at €115 it would be an expensive mistake to buy the wrong one. Anyone done this before? My bike is a1980 T3 California.
All the best,
David.
[QUOTE=CylvaBirch] Well tried pumping the lever until everything was really firmed up and then cracking the banjo union at the end of the master cylinder where the hose is connected. Fluid came out but sadly the brake is still the same. I have noticed that there is a brown fluid wetting the lever pivot point so I think the master cylinder seals are leaking and allowing air in.
Possibly a new master cylinder is needed. I cannot relate the one offered by Steine Dinse to the one fitted to my bike and at €115 it would be an expensive mistake to buy the wrong one. Anyone done this before? My bike is a1980 T3 California.
All the best,
David.[/QUOTE]
What about just a rebuild kit?
It’s an easy job and Gutsibits do stock several types. Worth a try.
Could the brake fluid reservoir be overfilled?
Seems counter intuitive and yet I saw this on a Yamaha enduro bike not so long ago,
All the best
Steveguzzibrat2013-07-21 22:47:00
If it’s leaking fluid into the lever joint yes it’s clapped. Gutsibits site should show you correct one if you search for T3 Cali one?
A rebuild kit might work but if it is the origonal master cylinder then a new one is a good idea if available,
I once went to replace my lever and found the bottom bit of the MC the screw screws into with the nut underneath just came off! It had been snapped off one of the times the bike had been chucked down the road and bodged back together, the lever held on just by the friction of the screw head in its hole! Just saying MC’s can be unknowingly damaged.
Going to search for a new MC. I am not prepared to compromise on brakes. I have actually replaced everything else, this is the last bit of the original brakes.
All the best,
David.
hmm my Lemon has just started doing the same, even down to the slight stain around the pivot nut…bugger
…Gutsibits and steine dinse both have them in stock around £100…
I have ordered one from Gutsibits today plus two copper crush washers for the banjo union.
Should be here by Saturday.