Spada timing

Any advice on checking timing on the above?
The engine is running a bit rough the nearside pot appears to be the one at fault, I damaged the coil during renovation so have replaced it with a new one, however it still runs rough and when I pull the plug cap off it the engine keeps running but when I pull the o/side one off the bike stops.
I have balanced the carbs as well as I can and then connected up a set of vacuum gauges which according to the reading say the timing is out or there is an air leak however both gauges register the same so I think that’s unlikely.
There is also slight occasional pop on n/side
Any thoughts

Q: is it contact breakers? If ‘yes’ instructions here starting page 137 (135) http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/mg_manuals/workshop_manual_g5_sp.pdf Forget about the special tools, just use the flywheel marks. 2 notes ~ #1. the LH breakers are individually adjustable on a sub-plate, up to a point, they have their own special locking screws, BUT you must set up RH breaker first. #2. while the contact surfaces last yonks, the heel that rides on the cam wears out, when this gets serious the timing wanders about all over the place and refuses to stay where it’s been set. Guess how I know. This means new breakers are needed. HTH Appendix ~ set to begin opening at the fully retarded position 0 - 2° BTDC, (‘D’ and ‘S’ on flywheel) don’t worry about the advanced position too much.
Mike H2013-06-20 18:16:49

Hi Mike
Thanks for the info and link when I look at my flywheel there are no marks on it other than the s & d so I checked with a light the points opening and as far as I can tell they both open on the button.
The tappets on the nearside were a tad on the tight side so adjusted them and also swapped the plugs over with no change so will now start checking all electrical connections after that it can only be fuel
Dave

They ARE the marks There ain’t no others ~ well apart from the advance scribed line ahead of those ones. ‘D’ is RH cyl. TDC, ‘S’ is LH cyl. TDC. What I would do is disconnect the red and green wires, then put a multimeter on (or battery and bulb if you like) then adjust the breaker to open at the point when flywheel just reaches ‘D’ or ‘S’ ~ depending which side you’re doing. Strange as it may sound, I’d turn engine by removing plugs then with Allen key in alternator rotor bolt.

This is suggesting imbalance of idling mixture or throttle slide heights. E.g. RH side slide is higher than LH side. (?) Still a good idea to make sure ign. timing is good though before messing with carb settings.

Thanks all
the timing is as near as dammit so i’m leaning towards the carbs, I will have a good go at them as soon as I get the time, thanks again for all the feedback
Dave

had similar with my 750 strada. throttle cables werent shutting together. fixed that and bike is now great. one cable wasnt sitting square in carb.

Ref the timing, the manual refers to various timing marks:-- TDC, Marked D for right and S for left Static timing (at approx 2 degs before TDC)Full advance (31 degs before TDC)I think Mario was a bit forgetful in marking these and mine certainly has no static timing marks, just TDC and max advance They are quite a distance apart.

No I never saw any static marks, just TDC with the letter, but I figure if points just open when it reaches TDC, then it’s a couple of degrees advanced at fully retarded.

Yeah mines the same no other marks other than thre of the teeth paint orange elsewhere on the ring, don’t seem to equate to anything

The info here is usefull on timing marks etc

http://www.eurospares.com/graphics/lr124a.jpg

Note the info on timing marks each tooth is = to 3.75 degrees so 9 teeth back it worked for me on the V thou guzzibear2013-06-23 12:44:31

That is what it says on the link I gave I found it for the RiTa BUt the timing info has been very useful