This is now beyond a joke. If I want to go out for a ride I have to spend 10 minutes pumping up my rear tyre first! Any advise on solutions? The only short term fix I can think of is to have an inner tube installed but tyre manufacture’s/fitter’s websites have dire warning about running tubes on tubeless rims. How dangerous is it? To my naive thinking it seems safe enough. If the tube blows there is a still a reasonable air seal provided by the rim and tyre and the tyre will just slowly deflate past the spoke seals as it does currently. Or am I missing something?
Use a heavy duty tube and put plenty of talc on it, should be fine!
Tyres are rarely made especially for tubes nower days, the guzzi system is awful, a much better system is employed buy just about every other manufacturer,
Lots of other bikes use tubes in tubeless tyres though, the 800Gs for one!
Had this problem last winter. Each spoke is sealed with 2 standard/cheap ‘o’ rings. I identified the spoke that was causing the problem (old tin bath method) and Streffords repaired it for not much more than the labour cost. No issues since then!
I would hope/expect that most proper Guzzi dealers would be able to do the same.
Last century I went round the Avon factory in Melkesham.
The guide told us they didn’t make tubed tyres any more, they simply changed the mould insert to tubed and charged a fiver less.He actually advised by the tubed for a tubeless fit if Avon made them as the same tyre but cheaper.
What I would like to know is, has anybody used tubeless tyres on a MK111 LM wheel without the tube?
I would like to get rid of the hassle of using the tube
This is true! New wheels a snip (£400) from Corsa Italiana (other suppliers are available  ) and sold the spoked wheels on eBay (£250). I had one spoke leak repaired by Newcombe Brothers while the bike was still under warranty and decided that if the bike was a keeper the spoked wheels had to go. I thought of tubes originally but was persuaded away from that route. I think they look ok too…
I put a post in the for sale section… But I have a brand new set of cast wheels for the Stelvio, I bought them for my NTX after I saw what Chris had done, now don’t need them and will sell for £350 inc UK  delivery.
I have had silicon seal put on top of each of the spoke retainers when the tyre was changed, seems to work for the moment. I will however at some point have the rusty spokes replaced with stainless steel spokes and get better seals put on.
No it didn’t work. On the plus side I am developing my leg muscles with all that use of the foot pump! I think I will go for the cast wheels. The leak really annoys me as it takes the spontaneity out of going for a ride.
Checked the pressure today after a week standing outside (the bike not me!) and it was holding a healthy 40 psi. Maybe the sealant has finally worked its way into the leaky O-ring (see earlier comments about centrifugal force throwing it all in the wrong direction). I am cautiously optimistic and will hold off buying new wheels for now.
Glad to hear it, Richard, It’s good to know there are solutions to the spokey issue. I would like the option of a 180 section rear on my '14 Stelvio so one day I may be tempted by an older leak-sorted Stelvio rear wheel (or Norge cast wheel).
Incidentally, wifey and I were out on our cast-wheeled 1200s today. Being studious, I do check the pressures either weekly or before a ride if the bikes haven’t been used for a while. Neither bike leaks air to the point that you’d notice. In fact, you could leave each bike for 2 months quite confidently (although I don’t). Mine is a cast-wheeled Stelvio, hers a Buell Lightning, OMG I LOVE that Buell!
Donations of Norge rear wheel gratefully received!
 I didn’t know that the 14 Stelvios had a different section rear wheel.
I agree that a properly sorted wheel/tyre combination should leak air at an imperceptible rate (my knowledge of physics suggests that zero leakage is impossible). I went for a ride today and the knowledge that the tyre was holding pressure certainly gave me more confidence when pushing things a bit. (This is all relative, I am not talking about getting my knee down, On a recent group ride my moniker was changed from “Ironman” to " Grandad"! -but I was chasing a Fireblade).
The ‘Big Tank’ (11>) models use a narrower rear rim for both cast and spoked versions. The tyre is a 150 section which allows for a wider choice of dual-purposes fitments. The earlier 180 section looks a bit more butch, though!
The story I heard… was that tubeless tyres are not finished necessarily with a smooth inner surface, unlike tubed tyres, so you may expect a bit of oo-er chafing on the tube potentially leading to a traumatic blow-out. That’s why tyre manufacturers give out the No-No warning. Make of it what you will.
 ) and sold the spoked wheels on eBay (£250). I had one spoke leak repaired by Newcombe Brothers while the bike was still under warranty and decided that if the bike was a keeper the spoked wheels had to go. I thought of tubes originally but was persuaded away from that route. I think they look ok too…