Had a bit of a scare on me way home last night when my throttle was hanging open (had to force the throttle around to close it off rather than it snapping closed as it should)
Anyway, thought it was probably the cables, so took those off tonight and nope, they move nice and cleanly. It’s the linkage onto the top of the throttle bodies which is stiffer than the pope’s little feller after stumbling into the nunnery at bath time.
I guess it’s probably mechanical in that linkage system on the top rather than anything in the throttle body itself so is there any damage I can do to anything by taking this all off? How should it be working as this is the first time I’ve delved into this part of the bike and have no reference point.
I think Tone might be referring to the recall/update that applied to the early EV Calis that only had one ‘pull’ throttle cable - Guzzi supplied another to convert the throttle to a pull/push action following a Fatacc in Germany. If you already have two cables then it doesn’t apply to yours.Rather than start stripping the linkages down right from the start, why not spray all the exposed pivot points with a good solvent cleaner and see if that frees it up? Then give them a light application of a spray grease.If you do start to strip them be careful with the small E clips on the top of the TB butterfly spindles - they can fly off!Maybe an exploded parts diagram from Greg Bender’s website would help?GJ
No.It is crap.
Ambersil FE10 (we use it at wotk) or any solvent cleaner.
OK I fell for that one but stand by what I said anyway.
THe proper thing is not extensive and from memory cheaper WD40.
what has everyone on here got against wd40,its served me well for donkeys years. Anyway, coincidently I had similar happen just last week and found my cables in good order too. so I took off the throttle cover things and repeatedly wd40’d and airlined the whole throttle linkage, finaly using brake cleaner and finishing with a light coating of 3in1 spray, now all light, happy and snappy like new. mo_biker2012-05-23 18:29:31
There are far better dedicated cleaners and lubricants out there - it might just do a job as a Water Dispersant, (even if it took them 40 attempts at getting the formula right!), that is provided it didn’t destroy some types of plastic!Spray some in an open glass container and leave it for a while until the propellant evaporates and you’ll see why I wouldn’t allow the gunky crap anywhere near something I wanted cleaned or lubricated, (or left in one piece if it was the ‘wrong’ kind of plastic). GJ
guzzijack2012-05-23 19:02:40
Anyway, stripped the linkages tonight as they were almost seized. Now with some fresh grease they’re silky smooth again. Though I have a new problem, the breather hose has split which is probably part of what caused the problem as there is a nice mist of oil on everything. Guzzibits don’t seem to stock it so I’ll have to do some searching for somewhere that can get hold of it.
Glad to hear you got the linkages working well again - hope you didn’t resort to W…D… I can’t say it…40 urghhhh. Breather hoses can last from 3 or 4 years to… a long time, depending on how much you do or don’t use the bike. Have you tried the aftermarket for supplies? Good time to check the crankcase valve when you replace it.
Nope, no WD. Only have that for emergencies. Cleaner and a tub of grease did the job.
Just trying to find somewhere online that stocks the pipe, no preference to OEM or aftermarket so long as it works!! Might even resort to finding something similar if it comes down to it.
I’m going to have to ask, where does the crankcase valve sit? I’m fairly happy fiddling with most bits but never really delve into the engine unless it’s changing a spark plug!
For your bike/engine it should be a check ball retained by a circlip inside a holder that itself sits within the crankcase breather spigot. They can sometimes come away with the old breather pipe when you pull it off so it’s worth looking for it - and maybe make a slice lengthways into the hose at the end to help ease it of if neccesary?Provided it’s not gummed up and the ball can move then all should be well.
Or one decent spray of a proper solvent cleaner and follow up with a decent ptfe or silicon spray lubricant.
Come on mo, you’re now playing with the big boys, get it right.
No aversion to a phone call, just at that time of night everyone was closed! Anyway, ordered it this morning from Palmers, they had exploded parts diagrams online so I could confirm that I was ordering the right bit.