Any suggestions, advance spring,points,
coils and crank all damaged ,
There are a few companies that will make replacement springs, they advertise in old Bike Mart. Alberta Springs in Colchester ( 01473 311783) is a aname that comes to mind. If you send them both parts, they should be able to make you a replacement.
As for the coils, I have had them rewound by West Countr Windings in Thetford, they did an excellent job with a fast turn around.
I have had a couple of Stornellos converted to 12volts by them. I had the top coil modified to convert it to 12 Volts. Have a read of the comments in this thread.
and this one
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Interesting read, I like the idea of 12v conversion, Any thoughts on the crank, could it be repaired by drilling, taping and insert a stud?
There is one on ebay, does not look like mine, I presume 4 speed is different from 5 speed
That doesn’t look good. The one on eBay is quite different as it was an odd period 68 to 69 when they produced a 4 speed 160 model that had a completely different alternator set up so the end of the crank is different.
I guess you could try speaking to an engineering company to see what they could do. The pictures I posted of the flywheel etc show what it should look like. I can provide more photos if you need. I’m afraid I don’t have a spare 5 speed crank.
I am trying to keep bike in one bit till I get paperwork, V5 sorted, then the engine will come out. Pity because it has good compression and no play in crank bearings. But I suppose thats why it was laid up, like to know how or why its in this state. Anyway I am hopeful that the engineering shop can do something,
I would guess the nut on the end of the crank came loose, or someone forgot to put the spacer washer in allowing the flywheel to move on its taper, hence the broken woodruff key, the damage to the coils and the broken nose on the end of the crank.
Don ,am I right in thinking your modified lighting coil, (top) plus 12v rectifier regulator , feeds lights and battery charging . Have you left the ignition coil (bottom) standard as AC ?
Would you know correct part number for the points,
Your points look slightly different to the one’s I have seen. All of mine have had a fixed post that the points fit over.
Looking at your photo, it seems the pivot post seems to be part of the points. The ones I have used are CEV 4266. I have bought some of these from Italy from this seller CONTATTI PUNTINE CEV 4266 MOTO GUZZI DINGO | eBay UK
Another source that has been suggested to me is Bob Wright in Weston super Mare he had/has a huge stock of spares for old Gileras. and stocks CEV 4259 for £16 + p&p, that was 3 years ago.
Sorry, I wrote a piece about the coils but it didn’t make it onto the reply above!
The lower coil is the ignition and I kept that as standard. The system works very well and won’t leave you stranded by the roadside with a dead battery.
The upper coil normally has 2 windings, one for the battery charging and one for the AC lighting. Both of these connect to earth to complete the circuit. I had this coil rewound as a single wiring with 2 yellow output leads which I connected to a modern 12v rectifier/regulator. The output from that goes to a small sealed 12volt battery. Some simple modification of the headlight wiring puts the battery voltage into the former AC lighting circuit. I use an LED headlight as I’m not sure how many watts the system will produce. I’m sure it would produce enough to run indicators if you wanted to add them to the bike. I did fit them to the 5 speed bike that i did up a while ago, but sold it on before I tested it on the road.
Thanks for that, I found “ Myronmopeds “ who list cev parts. Apparently there is 7 different cev base plates and different points to suit. Think I found the right ones on ebay Italy, cev 6878, or 3157p. All a bit confusing. The 4 speed has different points 4266 or 3157 different base plate and rotor, I think !
I have striped the damaged winding off the light coil, 10 meters of 0.5mm ,3 layers, The other winding is testing ok. But I can’t find what the resistance reading should be ? I will rewind that coil .
The ignition coil although marked is showing 0.2 ohm ,again don’t know what it should be., probably rewind also.
When I did my upgrade, I had the upper coil redone as one single winding. Respect for you if you can rewind coils yourself.
The coils have very little resistance, my test is to kick the bike over with a meter attached to the coil output and the chassis to see if it produces a small voltage, around 2volts on a good kick!
I do have some points that I bought off ebay that include the post, I will see if I can find them tomorrow and see how they compare.
I have a spare set of points marked up as CEV 4267. They have a fixed pivot pin as part of the base plate and it projects through so iy would fit into a hole in the stator plate.
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Hi Don, thanks for looking out points, but they are slightly different . The mount screw slot and the ajusting slot are in different locations.
There is a set on ebay that look right, postage is a bit heavy.
Picture of my rewound light coil,not as neat as original but should do.
I’m sure it will work fine. Have you done the coil as a single winding or two windings on the same pole? The original set up had 2 wires coming from the coil, one red and one green. One for the lights and the other for charging.
A quick update, found a mag spring and woodruff key, modified to fit, a rather expensive set of points from Italy ,and my rewound coil . Fitted back on engine, kicking over I get a voltage from the red and green wires to earth, and a good bright spark .A good day,
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That’s great news.
How did you manage to repair the end of the crank to get the flywheel mounted?
No, a gentle tap onto the taper then kicked engine over, . I have applied for v5 ,dvla might want to inspect bike ,so engine still in frame. Once paper work finished, I will have to remove crank and see what engineering shop can do. If anyone has a crank for 5 speed,I would be interested. I presume the 4 speed is different from the 5 speed?
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That looks good, I’m glad to see you have removed the brown seat cover!
The cranks are diiferent numbers for the 4 speed (55064026) and the 5 speed (53064000) The 5 speed engine is slightly wider so the crank would have been modified to suit.
The only concern with trying to repair the damaged crank is the woodruf key that is quite deep and right where you would need to drill and tap if you were to trying to inert a repair into the shaft.
The one on ebay is different again as that is a 4 speed 160 and had a completely different electrical system fitted.
Teo Lamers have a left hand flywheel for sale, but they are not showing a right hand one, which is the part you need
Thanks for the part numbers , The ‘repair’ discussed with the shop might be drill into shaft and insert an interference fit rod and pin it through the shaft, then cut a thread. And as you pointed out the woodruff key slot would probably need to be re cut . Will see once it’s out.