I have just rebuilt a 1979 T3 with 12,000 miles on it.
On my first few test runs the clutch is slipping , the clutch cable is adjusted correctly , there is no sign of oil leaking from the bell housing,
I replaced the centre steel plate which showed scarring but the plates were showing no wear and were measured within spec.
Anyone any ideas
Anyone know a local guy / dealer near Maidstone who can do the clutch for meÂ
ThanksÂ
There is a tappet like adjuster on the clutch arm at the rear of the gearbox which may need adjusting
.12,000 miles is nothing on a bog block clutch.
First of all disconnect the cable at the clutch release arm end.
Then, by adjusting the little setting screw on the arm adjust the distance between the claw of the arm (where the cable end fits) and the end face of the gearbox and nip up the locknut. There is a dimension shown in the workshop manual; I am away on holiday so no access to it, but I think it is about 70 mm (further than you may think!).
Then reconnect the cable and using the adjustment on the cable at the gearbox end and the one on the clutch lever set 3-4 mm of play at the handlebar end.
Best of luck,
David.Â
A 36 year old bike with just 12,000 miles on it? original speedo ?
did you replace the thrust bearing?
a worn thrust bearing is a common fault with bikes which have clutch problems.
GuysÂ
thanks for all the feedback guys
Thrust bearings was fine,
arm all adjusted as per manual and suitable clearance at lever  with smooth action but it still slips.
Any thoughts on a local guy who could look at it for me Â
The 12,000 miles is original as I bought it off a mate who has had it in a garage for 30 years since his daughter was born , I have been trying to buy it for the last 20 years , I even have the original bill of sale and mots for the period before he mothballed it.
I am going to send a story to club magazine with photos of the restoration from rusting wreck to gleamingish favourite bike at the moment
Stephen (Fettler)Â
Hi Stephen, Not my neck of the woods so cannot recommend anyone. A question: did you put the clutch plates back in the right way round? If I remember correctly the bosses stick out more on one side than the other. Duffo will know for sure, but I think they both have to stick out towards the rear of the bike.
Good luck,
David.Â
Looking forward to reading the story of your restoration and the pictures. Good luck with the clutch! If you get really stuck you could always stick it in a van and take to Nigel at NBS 01889 271818 or 07958 584889. He would sort it out for you and check everything else.Â
It’s 75mm and I think we established it’s a mistake (this has come up before), it’s possibly a typo, as in should be 57mm?
At least on mine 75mm is impossible as the brake pedal pivot won’t allow it to go back that far. Also the adjuster screw would be so far into the lever there’d be no thread left for the locknut.
Or it’s not clear which two points the measurement should be made between.
But the basic idea is to simply set the screw such that it is exactly in line with the pushrod end (actually the outer half of the thrust bearing ‘T’ piece), when cable is pulled. This minimises the screw sliding sideways on the end of the rod.
Is the so-called thrust-piece in the centre of the pressure plate seated correctly, it’s actually keyed into the plate, if it’s not properly seated the clutch plates cannot fully close up and so there will be slippage, and guess how I know!!
Another possible cause of slippage is the splined clutch centre, after time the plates can wear notches in this which can cause the plates to stay slightly seperated. a few hours with a riffler file can cure it and save quids.
PS Yes the slightly raised bosses on the plates should face the rear.