Hi all. Having issues again with the front end on the T3.I have changed the dampers not more than 3000 miles ago but its still blowing fork seals? I am thinking the springs may need replacing and the fork travel seems excessive? What do you think? I have two seals in each fork but still it leaks. Heavier weight oil?
put fork gators on and forget,unless they bottom out then put progressive springs in
The oil is only there to lube the internals, it should be ATF fluid on a T3 and not that much of it.
The very little that shows there wipe it pop gaitors on it and then check
On mine it’s 90cc per leg. However you must be certain that all old oil is drained ~ recently did mine during current ovehaul, now then, I’ve got a note on paper (well word processor file) from the last time that “no oil in left hand leg”, actually when I drained it this time it seemed twice as much came out than expected! AND the drain hole had to be poked with a thin Allen key until it started running out. Most likely reason for leaking past the seals is overfilled, although mine wasn’t leaking, I don’t think; or, dents or pits on the stanction will do it, e.g. my R80 does that a bit on LH leg, that was due to copping a stone on the stanchion that was chucked up by a tipper lorry. It’s almost microscopic but enough to cause a weep past the seal. Leakage looks like yours. I think I reduced it though by smoothing the dent with a fine needle file. HTH
Mike H2013-06-02 18:54:04
Ok,Thanks… The fork stanchions are new chromed so I’m ruling out stone chip damage. I think gators would spoil the look of a cali?..I’ll try using less oil as mentioned.
Well no they were fitted as standard to many calis and V1000’s Silly qn but did you put the 2 fork seals top to bottom… ie not in the same way?guzzibear2013-06-02 22:24:25
As far as I can recall I have them in top top, both the same way. Whats the difference?
had similar probs with re-chromed stantions on my old v50, unless they have been ground to the same size as the oem ones they wont bite properly against the seals.i gave up and fitted gaitors… done same to the t5
There is a whole section in guzziology re the way Guzzi do their forks, the upshot is get the correct seals the blue ones and the new seals should actually only need 1 of due to the fact that old type seals (brown ones) were made for reciprocating parts NOT sliding parts the new ones (blue) are made to better spec and for sliding parts and therefore should only need 1 seal not 2 the 2nd seal only (apparently) adds “sticktion”!!!
Thanks gb…Have guzziology so I’ll take a look.
I seem to remember something about fitting the seals face to face , but that may have been the old style seals and a looong time ago… to be fair as the oil only lubes the internals I tend not to worry too much about it, maybe I am wrong, but the rear shox don’t get an oil bath and seem to last a fair while!!!
Found a great fix for several Tontis, there used to be a double lipped single seal the same size as the standard seal, bought them from a bearing shop, sadly now defunct, but the seals worked well. Still fitted gators as they stopped stone dings and even some insects which turned out to be corrosive when squashed!Cheers, Gerry.
I would have thought the fit of the stanchions into the yokes would be in question if they had not been ground to the correct size. Far less tolerance in that fit than in the seals which are a bit flexible.
one thing to check is the actual seals the proper GUZZI ones are blueish and are actually 34.75 (i think) as the correct size of the stantions is undersize if you 35mm seals from a motor factors / bearing suppliers they will always leak
I would also try to get the ones that have a dust scraper on them
I would fit them with the gator spring in first on both of them especially if you get the top one with the scraper edge on
If you dont get the scraper ones ony muck on the stations will work its way past the sealing faces
I replaced the pitted stanchions on my v50 with re-chromed ones and suffered for a long time with oil residue etc , the clamped up fine. but the seals never bit propperly, refitted the old ones and the still clamped up but the seals worked well.There is a bit of give in the yokes that seems to allow for minor variations in the size . but unless they are properly coated and re ground to the correct spec you can have problems . Thinking lateraly if the grinding was badly done you could get high and low spots that would make the seals life even harder
Poor surface finish on the regroud stanchions would certainly cause problems with the seals.
Ya, I’d say it could be the machining of the stanchions alright. I got a company here to do another set for a friend on a spada and the stanchions were oversize and wouldn’t fit into the leg lowers…I think I had these ones done in uk?
same boat i was in with the v50 and my current t5…I gave up and fitted gaiters.but make sure you buy expensive ones, as my 2 year old cheap ones have just started splitting