Not used the forum before, so this may have been covered before!. Im fitting a ram clutch to my T3 ive sorted out my timing mark method with a degree disc and checked my old flywheel for confirmation all ok, but on fitting the new flywheel I can barely see the ally flywheel through the hole in the gearbox is this normal, can really only see the gear ring easily. can anyone offer any advise, thanks paul
You could use your degree wheel to get the flywheel at the desired locations, i.e. static and full advance for each side, then mark the bits that you can see when viewing through the window.
This info may help
On big block Guzzi the timing marks should be thus
The TDC mark Right hand Cylinder (Just above the D mark on the flywheel)
Distance to the Static mark is 4mm
Static mark to Full advance mark is 62mm
D Full advance to the arrow (which is the alighment arow is 24mm
The S (Left hand full advance to the D Topdeadcentre mark is 114 mm
For the 850T Le Mans 1-V Big Valve Cali 3 & 1000S these marks are:-
Static-Full Advance 52mm
S full adv- D tdc 112mm
For V7 Sport,750S,earlyS3
Static-Full advance 52mm
D full to arrow 12mm
SFull advance-DTDC 102mm
Hope this helpsguzzibear2013-11-09 16:54:14
thanks will mark what I can
Yeh it does get a wee bit confusing as you mark the flywheel ABOVE the D and S then of coures the flywheel turns the opposite way so it seems to take ages for the Full advanve to come around, good tip is to mark each in different colours D=white … S =yellow then scribe through the marker That way it is easier to distinguish
I just re did mine BUT it is off the bike as I am re commissioning the old 1000cc engineguzzibear2013-11-10 20:17:55
There are 96 teeth on the starter ring gear so each tooth is 3.75 degrees.May help you to check from TDC.
This is one of the most useful pieces of information when setting up Tonti bikes
All the best
This info for Rita on a big block T3-V1000 inc Spada is very useful
You can set up other ign systems using this info.
This is the V50 info
Other bikes and info here
Indeed, because you can’t trust marks people have made in the past and you can’t trust marks that even look like factory marks, especially when you’re tyring to find them with a strobe at 5000rpm…
It is also so easy to have someone put the flywheel back on in the wrong position.
Once you find TDC on the Right “D” you can work from there. If you really want to be pedantic to get TDC use a stop turn the engine clockwise feel the compression stroke on the D pop the stop in when the piston touches the stop mark the flywheel, turn the engine anti clock till the piston touches the stop …mark the flywheel then dissect the two and smack in the middle will be TDC.
Guzzis are so forgiving tho’ I use a blunt drift and on the compression you can see where it stops then bobs back down I have the pin marked so I know TDC.
ONCE you have the D TDC you can measure the Static point above the D then the Full Advance for D , then using the above table you get the Arrow which is a make sure, then you can find S. TDC and it’s subsequent Static and Full advance.
It is ALWAYS best to check these marks on ANY bike YOU have NOT taken apart yourself.
It does take a little time to get your head around these markings THEN figure out that they take a while to come around
thanks for all the info, its been very helpful