Timing my T3

The distributor will have to come out after all to finally fix the oil leak. I want to re-do the ignition timing at the same time. Does anyone have a bomb- proof method so I will not keep agonising about it later? I keep convincing myself that somehow I have one of the cylinders slightly out of tune. If I cannot get this spot on, meddling with the carburettors is almost a waste of time.
All the best,

I had to fit the distributor to my dismantled V7Sport the other day and I wrote a bit about it in my blog http://racingrhino.wordpress.com/2014/05/30/its-not-all-plain-sailing/ This shows you basically how to roughly set the static timing. I can’t set it accurately yet as the bike is dismantled. To do it accurately I use the usual method of putting a light across the points to indicate when they open. The problem with both my bikes has been that when the right set of points has been adjusted properly there’s not enough adjustment to get the left side correct. I file out a bit of the back plate for the left set so everything can move just a little further.

If points (I presume) I have always done it static, fully retarded at 0° BTDC on the compression stroke. You can use very thin paper like a Rizla paper to see when the points open (paper comes loose). Set engine to TDC of the compression stroke RH side (‘D’ in flywheel inspection hole) before you take the dizzy out. Then you will know at once when it goes back in if it is at the correct angle or not, if correct the RH points should be on the point of opening. Set both CB gaps on the max. thickness of the cam before setting the breaking point at TDC, and locking down the dizzy collar. The contact breaker plate has a separately moveable sub-plate for the LH points only, and I have found that I usually have to cheat by altering the set gap so that I can get enough movement in the sub-plate to be able to set the points to open at 0° BTDC for LH side, same as RH side. Obviously you turn engine to ‘S’ in the flywheel hole, where LH points should be just about to open. Skew the sub-plate and cheat the gap until LH points break at 0° BTDC. Instead of 0° BTDC you can use 2° BTDC. Le Manses are supposed to be 8° BTDC. HTH EDIT: John has beat me to it.
Mike H2014-06-03 21:26:26

I replaced the points some time ago with a Dynatech system. The left and right sides are still able to be timed seperately. So do I assume I do not need to bother setting the advance at anything other than 0 degrees BDTC?
All the best,

My manual (Guzzi’s supplement to the old V7Sport to 850T one) says the T3 has a fixed advance of 2° so I would have thought you’d set the points (or spark) to that.

v7john2014-06-03 23:44:50

I fitted a Dynatech ignition on my T3, and found their static ignition timing instructions were pretty much spot on.

How about checking the timing before you take the dissy out.


Yup, been there, done that.Guzzi’s eh.

In that case the issue seems to be putting the dizzy back at the right angle. So I would time it first then, then set it to TDC compression stroke RH side, (‘D’ in flywheel hole), make a note of where the rotor is relative to the pick-up(s). So when dizzy goes back in you should know what the rotor angle has to be. HTH

Sunday’s job while my wife is out with the ladies afternoon tea gang.