Changed the oil and filter on my LM2 and can’t find any torque values for the 18 sump bolts nor the M10 drain bolt. I have both a factory manual and a Haynes and neither seem to give a torque value for these items which seems unusual given the threads in the crankcase that the sump attaches to are meant to be susceptible to stripping if over tightened.
I last did this job 3 years ago but can’t recall how I resolved this, can anyone assist?
David
I never torque anything like those. Just do them by feel. As you say they are all into ally so not too tight. Spanners for small bolts are short giving less leverage, fat bolts have longer spanners for greater leverage.
It is worthwhile adding some coppaslip so they come out easily next time you do an oil change.
Thanks Don, I appreciate the reassurance. I think I must have applied that logic last time but when I came to drop the sump plug it was tight and the hex has lost its shape from the soft material it seems made from. I have found a steel replacement so need to careful how much I tighten that!
The sump plug is large and a coarser thread so will take abit more torque, but to actually damage the hex shape is a bit extreme!
I’m with Don on this.
Probably also why a socket head Allen, can’t get too much welly on it. But if you insist on using a torque wrench, I would suggest around 5 N-m, not much more.
“The Book” says 8 - 10 Nm (same as the rocker covers), but this is way below the range of most torque wrenches. I use a low range 1/4 drive torque wrench.
As above, clean the threads thoroughly and use copper grease; not for lubrication, but to stop them seizing in the sump. Alternatively, low strength loctite (243) will exclude the air and prevent corrosion.
Don’t forget the four hex head bolts in the centre of the sump as well as the allen screws. As usual with alloy castings, tighten in a diagonal sequence and in a couple of stages.