Tranny oil spattered my rim

hmm, the last time I used those words in a sentence I got put on remand -

But on the V7 Classic '09, I gave the unsprung weight a good workout yesterday on subsidence-rutted high moors roads, this morning noticed a couple of hundred tiny flicks of transmission fluid on the wheel rim and a tiny weep from the drain plug. It took a 1/64th turn with an 8" spanner in an unconvincing kind of manner, will monitor.

Any similar experience? Really not much to write about with this model thank God, just shooting the breeze really

Phil

Yeah it happens and be very careful no to overtighten the drain or level plugs they will strip the threads far better to:-

  1. Use ptfe tape on the threads

  2. on older bikes with no breather run the bike till it is real hot and then open the filler it will often “burp” out the hot air then closing it creates a vacuum and stops the oil getting out especially when the bike gets hot

I did wonder when I saw the topic line…
Thought I’d inadvertently got into “one of those” forums!

Other than that I can’t make any useful contribution to the thread! Sorry

Useful enough, made me smile Welshguzzi.

Thanks for the information, guzzibear. I’ll try those tips.

Phil

So a little further up the road and I changed the oil and Loc-Tite’nd the drain plug in prep for the Mendip Mayhem run, but only partial cure since about 5% of previous seep is still getting through.
Forumista iandunmore was casting his eye over it, told him my problem and he suspects the breather plug. So that’s the next attempt at a cure, will keep posted.

PhilPhil-T2013-10-03 07:32:59

As I said in a different but related post I use Dowty washers on all the drain and filler plugs. They have a built in O ring and seal very well.

Did you ‘burp’ your rear drive to release pressure when it was hot?

NOT a good idea to LocTite the drain plugs

  1. they can tend to strip threads and loctite will not help there
  2. Basic Loctite is “released” by heat

Far better to use PTFE tape as THAT seals threads real good , heat does not affect it once on, It acts as a lubricant cos PTFE is slippy far less likely to cause thread damage undoing it, yet it also holds the nut in place. I use it on all my level and drain plugs never had any problems in over 25 years

As already suggested, the first thing I would suspect is sealing washer? I presume it has one normally?

Thanks responses, soaking it up for the next session.

Phil

You can get venting nipples but this would mean you would have to the machine nut tapped

I thought the small blocks all had vents on the bevel drive.

Sorry. Missed the ‘09’ bit.

While I was rebuilding my Cali III FF and had the rear drive in pieces I took the advice in Gambalunga and put Helicoil inserts in all the drain/level/filler plug threads to avoid future problems.

There shouldn’t be any problems if you use the correct working sealing washers and simply don’t do the plugs up too tight. Even helicoils can be failed by overtightening.

I am sure there are vents on all small block bevel drive boxes, sounds like a failed washer. Or…some oil getting past the large diameter outer bevel-box seal.

i had an oil splattered rear wheel. Thought it was the CARC oil seal. Turned out to be the position of the engine oil breather venting and running down speedo cable dripping onto the rear wheel.

as for for tight filler and drain plugs, I broke an 8 mm hex socket trying to undo the gearbox filler. Eventually got it undone. Goodness know s what they used to tighten it up with.Almost2013-10-13 10:02:18