is the Failing carrier bearing the one in the shaft housing, held in with a grub screw?
Yep, that’s it
fixed thanks
Lucky guess on my part. If you feel like taking it on, might be worth pulling the swinging arm off and just checking that there is no physical contact showing between the U/J and swinging arm.Are you certain that 360mm is the correct length specified by Guzzi?
Very interesting!
"I think i will pull the swing arm off and take a look,[/quote] just to be sure. But it can wait till the next wet weekend… never a long wait in UK Â 
if you are going to pull the swing arm it is easier to drop the bevel box off it first - halves the weight and makes the arm easier to manhandle back into position when fitting
Just by the way, before my UJ broke it was scraping the inside of the housing (what causes the vibration through the right footrest?), so this might mean early signs of roller bearings failing. Possibly. (?) Assuming it normally wouldn’t touch even when swing arm fully lowered.
drive and UJ striped carrier bearing not turning in shaft housing or shaft, the inside of the shaft housing looks like new no paint off bearings are a nice tight fit. splines and uj look like they just came out the factory, no rusty parts etc…?
Interesting thread , I’m getting the Cali ready for powder coating . The swing arm is off but how do I remove the uj and bearing . Help please
Just realised something…
That’s one notchy bit for each turn of the drive shaft etc. then, as final drive ratio is approximately 5:1. (4.7:1) Sorry for being so slow. So looks like what you’re looking for then is something that snags on each turn of the shaft; pinion, splined couplings, carrier bearing, UJ’s… (?)
Is it, or anything like, the Tonti frame version? If so, UJ tends to fall out because it’s become loose in the support bearing with use. (Take gaiter off.) Else, tap it out from the shaft side with a long rod and hammer. Remove circlip from gearbox side of swingarm to release bearing. Needs circlip pliers. Tap out bearing from shaft side. I’ve found a 1/2 inch socket extension and the right dia. socket on the end is just right to drive out the bearing. HTH
the shaft on mine has an internal thread at the bevel box end, i used it to hold a large socket with tape on the outside to help keep the bearing aligned when pressing it back in.
Oo-er, I just tapped mine in with a tommy bar and hammer
Wish I had known about UJ problems and checking the joint. I put a new gear box oil seal in and never even checked the UJ…
the swing arm in and out and lining the shaft back up so it slots back in is not a easy job. Saying that neither was getting to the oil seal!
Well if it is, I managed to make it hard work as normal!
Only managed to get the swinging arm back in after supporting the back end with a bungee over the seat to take the weight…
it took me 20 mins to make the spine align first time fingers in the boot etc. second time I got it in by laying on the floor with the swing arm without the boot on the UJ end. set it on a axle stand and the back end much lower than you would think to have it line up then stuck a block of wood under it to set the angle then lifted it out and stuck the rubber boot on and it slotted in much easier.
That implies you had the drive box already fitted on the end and the shaft in? Niet ~ put UJ in swingarm, put swingarm into frame, then shaft onto final drive pinion, then drive box onto swingarm. Plus new grease on all splines. Plus new circlips if they're loose. Also, final drive box has to be rotated so that wheel spindle slips through easily, this aligns it accurately on the spindle, THEN tighten the 4 nuts. Never had any bother lining up the splines, the thing that caught me out at first was the lower rear frame bolts, that also hold on the footrest carriers, prevent the swingarm being withdrawn so have to come off as well.
Mike H2014-04-06 21:51:48
Mike put the bevel box on after, still needed the bungee to hold the back end up then the front end slipped in. However your right about those foot peg bolts. It got the s arm out with them in but no way was it going back!
Just done the back end of my cali. Fortunatly all the bearings, clips and UJ were mint. But what a filthy knuckle shredding pig of a job, it felt like I had to remove everything except the front tyre valve to get the poxy swing arm out, but glad I did as most of the paint was blistering, so I cleaned all that back and repainted with rustoleum (was advised it is better than hammerite) then had to take a rubber mallet to it to get the dang thing back in and touch up my hard work. also repainted the bevel box cos it looked mouldy. Used hammerite smooth for that, it does look much better but not as good as I hoped. Still, as my mother used to say,‘what you would’nt see from a galloping horse’. Not too sure to this day what she meant but it’s a good get-out .
Well there you go, it’s one of those jobs that once you’ve grasped the nettle, you not only have the piece of mind that the shaft and UJ is all fit for duty, cleaned and regreased, but a good clean up and repaint of the swingarm and rear frame bits, battery plate etc. When I did mine last year also stripped cleaned and repainted main stand and pivots, and fitted stainless fasteners around rear frame and battery area, gearbox and the nuts that hold on the final drive. Also my swingarm pivot lock nuts were starting to rust up and sieze inside so deffo needed sorting (can have no idea until you look), replaced the outer lock nuts with SS versions and copper grease inside.
Mike H2014-04-07 21:54:31