A further contribution on FB said, 1,400, dropping to 1,100 when hot - go figure!
Wow, that would be pretty good. I’d be happy with a 1000rpm idle, but could live with 1100.
How weird that we’re getting numbers from 1100 to 1600!
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Steve, I have a V100s and have experienced the fristrations you reference.I asked for my tickover to be reduced from 1500 at 1st service and they put it back to a relaxed 1400! Looks and sounds like I am very impatient at lights/junctions…1st gear selection shunt is made worse by this. Its certainly the noisiest geatchange across the range I have ever experienced. Tyre pressure indicator kept reading high into the red zone…alarming until you get off and check the pressure. I have almost forgiven these traits…but the hopeless rear mudgaurd theres no getting over. Even on a normal day everything gets covered in muck, including the suspension electronics, and if there is a shower I swear even with the luggage on I get covered too. Ill hang on in thanks to the bikes positive qualities, but I wish they had tested and refined it for a fortnight longer before signing it off.
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Well, my first 900 mile service is now completed and while I was there I asked about the higher than usual idle speed. Interestingly the response I got is that the idle speed is controlled by the engine map (as supplied by Aprilia) and therefore cannot be altered without specific programming changes to the ECU map. I owner of the service centre I went to contacted MG/Aprilia to ensure that my V1000 was running the latest software and that there no updates to add, which was the case. The current idle level at circa 1300-1400 is correct and the same for a number off MG and Aprilia machines now. What I have noticed is that since the first service light has been put out as part of the service the idle has dropped very slightly - maybe only 100 rpm but it is definitely a little lower. As I have been getting closer to the first service the clink in to 1st has been steadily reducing and now having changed engine and gearbox oil and filter and also the final drive oil - it is noticeable improved and the whole drive train is smoother and quieter. It still runs a higher idle than any other bike I’ve had but overall I’m very happy indeed with how the bike has improved throughout the running in process.
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Thanks, @paulc911, that does sound encouraging.
If the idle speed is controlled by the ECU map, I wonder how mine can be 200rpm faster than it should be. I’m beginning to wonder if there might be something out of adjustment.
The only thing I can think of is that the throttle butterfly will have a stop of some kind that prevents it closing all the way. If it didn’t have a stop to keep it just a fraction open then the throttle plate could get “wedged” in the throttle body. It might jam closed, and I think it would certainly start to wear the (softer) aluminium throttle body. After all, it would be opening and closing a lot in normal riding.
Now, I’ve never even seen a fly-by-wire throttle body, so I don’t actually know what they look like. I’m assuming it is still a “butterfly” throttle plate, but with some kind of actuator responsible for opening and closing it.
Anyway, IF I’m right, and IF it has a factory-set stop screw to prevent the throttle plate from jamming in the throttle body, then MAYBE it is holding the throttle plate a tiny bit too far open. In other words, it would prevent the ECU from slowing down the engine any further, regardless of what the internal map says.
When I get round to it I will run that past the technician and see if gets any traction. But I would love a 1300-1400 rpm idle!
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According to this, 2 throttle bodies, ergo 2 butterflies…
v100-mandello-e5-abs-2022-2023-emea/engine-throttle-body
I would imagine the ECU is monitoring rpm and controlling the butterflies for that rpm, or might even be by Idle Control Valve (ICV), but no mention of such here, altho it could be incorporated inside the unit if such exists. But I’m just guessing. But I don’t hold out much hope for screws to twiddle. 
No, I agree. Nothing obvious.
But still the mystery: if the idle speed is controlled by the ECU, why is mine 200rpm too fast? 
Failed coolant temperature sensor? E.g sensor supplies no data or out-of-range data. Engine ECU thinks it’s still in warm-up mode so holds tickover higher than expected.
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Interesting idea!
Hi Steve.My V100S idles at 1400 rpm.I was told by my dealer that this could not be altered.I think a lower idle speed might help with the crunch into first from neutral,but guess I will never find out!