Hi,
To perform valve clearance adjusment, the manual specifies the use of 2 special tools:
1.SKu 020851y - a short knobbed rod(dowel pin) . That’s inserted through hole in phonic wheel and cranckcase. Used to hold the cranckshaft and lower timing wheel on TDC.
- 021064y - a longer pin inserted into holes on camshaft lobes. Used to fix the camshafts at compression stroke TDC.
The shorter pin is common with aprilia and is widely available online. Couldn’t find the longer one(021064Y), nor was I able to obtain detailed spec(Diameter, length, tolerance level).
Can anyone help?
Also, am I being to anal l, wanting the job performed with those tools. My mechanic say they have Generic pins which they use for the job, should I insist?
As i understand it the pin holds the cams in the right place relative to the caps so that after the shims are replaced the cams go back in the right place?
I would trust that your mechanic can find a bolt or drill close enough to the hole size to avoid any error.
Hi,
Thanks for your response. But question is how much is “close enough”? Bolts and dowell pins are made to various tolerances. Dosent valve timing require pretty tight tolerances in the range of few hundredths of a mm?
If any old bolt can do the job why specifying aspecial tool?
I really ask because i try to understand. Dont mean to challenge or anything.
Looking at the V100 manual the pin locates the rotary position of both cams. But, as the manual shows, any mechanic would mark across the cam-wheels, chain and guide shoe to help re-assembly.
As the manual shows to reassemble you have to use the marks that you made on the sprockets and chain, that pin is just a double check, to ensure that the sprockets have been put back at the same tooth on the chain. As it looks like the cam sprockets have 32 teeth, the cam would have to be 11 degrees out to be on the next tooth and that a is lot! The photographs in the manual show the locating pin to be narrower than one tooth on the sprocket therefore if a sprocket was one tooth out the holes would not line up at all. So any long rod that goes through both cams and the cap will give that double check,
The valve to follower gap itself needs to be accurate to microns but that is to allow a precise amount of expansion when the engine is hot without wiping the lubricating film off the cam face. Not the same getting the cam on the right tooth of the timing chain
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Thanks for the thoroughness of your answer. Concerning the clearance have to be accurate. I was suprised to see that Guzzi dont provide a fixed reference for TDC as im used to with japanese bikes. The only visual que is to position the cam lobes at a particular orientation which is “eye balled”. My thought was that with clearance check its ok cause as long as you are in the base circle of the lobe a degree here or there want matter.
I think that the pin through the phonic wheel provide your crankshaft position. Locking crank and camshaft is very belt and braces lol
Hi Noamlu.
I am amazed and annoyed to find that there are no TDC marks available to reference through an inspection cover on my (new to me) E5 V85TT either.
While quality contyrol has most certainly gone up, some things have gone backwards as both my Tonti framed Le Mans II and T3 Cali have a bung at the side to the crankcase which, when removed, reveals such marks. Very frustrating…
It is annoying, but also worth remembering that with the original points on the LeMans it was worth checking the timing marks with a strobe every 1-2,000miles to check timing hadn’t drifted and also the atd function. As soon as electronic ignition is fitted that rubber bung gets left to go hard.
I actually gave away my Stroboscope 3 years ago 
hadn’t used it in a decade
You could check tdc just by piston position to check the valve clearances. But if you need to change the clearances the cams must come out and that raises a risk, the consequence of putting them back on the wrong tooth is quite serious. But if you are careful (and lock the garage when you go for a wee) it should be possible with no pins.
Even knowing what a stroboscope is, and what you do with it., betray tour age 
. I think even in a moto guzzi owner group some people are so much younger then us that they want recognize a strobe light .
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Aha…I remember being so broke I could only afford a neon strobe…then when I got a decent job I bought a powered xenon job from Halfrauds…I thought I was thr bee’s knees of motorbike mechanics!
My next purchase was a “proper” torque wrench (i.e. one that “clicked”, rather than the moving needle type).
Only ever used it on big end/head bolts, though…
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