V11 rear wheel removal - what have I missed?

Hi,
My V11 has a flat rear tyre. I’ve removed the nut & washer on the LHS but cannot get the axle out even with the help of a rubber mallet; it’s just forcing the swinging arm apart. The axle will rotate, with the use of a 14mm allan key but will not move ‘sideways’. Have I missed something? Is there a pinch bolt on the RHS? I’m following the workshop manual but does not mention a pinch bolt. Any Thoughts/Suggestions/Advice ???
Thanks, Noel

As you have the spindle moving rotationally, this suggests the spindle is ceased in the wheel or bevel box bearings.
Think about a rachet strap or sash clamp across the swing arm to brace them together, so when you belt it, you are working against both sides.
Re-engage the nut finger tight to the nyloc. Protect with a brass or aluminium drift, so the spindle gets a sharp crack from a hammee, not a dull thud.

Hi Cabernet,
Thanks for the advice. That’s exactly what I did last night when I got in; strapped the s/arm with a tie-down strap and got a bigger rubber mallet - Spindle out!!! :laughing:
Now, I need protection from my own stupidity!!! I used a short hollow bar to support the wheel, f/drive & s/arm while I detached the wheel from the f/drive. So, I now have the wheel detached and the bar stuck in the middle!!! :blush: By 10PM last night, I was in need of a cool ale so locked up the man cave and will resume today.
Again, thanks for the advice. It is much appreciated.
Rgds. Noel

Where you re-assemble, cppoer slip is your friend.
Whilst the wheel is out, check the needle roller bearing in the bevel box is smooth and lubricated. If it is NFG, the bear is in a shouldered hole, so don’t go trying to knock it through.

Cabernet, Thanks for the warning/advice. I agree with you on the Copper Slip; have always used it!
Wheel is finally out; I had to detach the ‘reaction arm’ and free the f/drive assy but I won in the end. :smiley:
Now, where have all the small independent tyre fitters gone?? I returned to biking a few years ago after a gap that is way too long but, back in the day, there was always a small back street firm that would fit m/c tyres. I live in N. Hants & work in Wilts; between the 2 locations I have a choice of 1 m/c tyre fitter!!! :astonished:
With the wheel out, I’ll replace the brake pads. I knew there is some play in the reaction arm but have looked at it close up to find the rubber is now completely perished so will need to sort that before the Sept. MoT.
Thanks again, Noel

It all makes a complete mockery of trying to fix a puncture by the side of the road. Not recommended now anyway on safety grounds. Last time I phoned RAC (Ural developed a flat rear) first thing I was told get everyone out of the vehicle and away from the road. (But I was in a pub carpark. :smiley: )

Looked at getting it fixed, nearest bike shop was for Harleys, but going by the web site looked like they mostly just do accessories and clothes. Only found two anywhere near, the second one was still miles away. Ended up getting recovered.

Hi Mike,
Yep & not surprised you needed up getting recovered; At least with the pub & the bike on a low loader you had somewhere ‘wet’ to wait!
I did know of m/c tyre place in Fleet but that has now been demolished for a block of flats!
Next issue will be a loss of petrol stations as the electric revolution takes over; we’ll end up with home deliveries as they did in the 1920’s.
Thanks for your msg, Noel :sunglasses:

Yeah managed to get enough air into it to get a mile up the road to a pub. Which I already knew about BTW, so I was lucky I was where I was.

I thought those Urals had iron shod wooden wheels :smiley:

Would have been useful at the time!

Was caused by an assembly bodge, two rim strips overlapping and pinching/rubbing the inner tube, not an actual proper puncture (sharp object). Front did the same last year. :unamused:

Hi,
A final update…
Having released the wheel, I’ve inspected it for obvious damage, nails, screws etc.; tyre looks OK. I’ve taken it to the only m/c tyre place with 30 miles of me who have confirmed it’s a faulty valve. £20 and I’m good to go; result!! :laughing:
Again, Thanks for your advice/chat/comments. Noel
PS BTW, Anyone in the Basingstoke-Maidenhead-Woking-Haslemere area?

Well done finding the faulty valve, it happened to me last year so I now have a half worn spare tyre.
The Berkshire branch is probably the nearest MGCGB branch to you.
My sister lives in Old Baising, but I don’t get down there very often, so I guess that doesn’t help much!

Worth check the valve retaining nut regular. They are known to corrode and split.

Very good point!!! I don’t remember seeing a nut!!!

I’m not covering myself in glory here!!! Would you believe I’m the supply chain manager for a firm that makes TPMS - Tyre Pressure Monitoring Systems for 60% of the worlds car manufacturers!! :blush:
Rgds. Noel

No inner tube though is there? Only on inner tube valves?

The tubeless valve has an exterior retaining nut.

Oo-er can’t say I’ve ever seen one! :open_mouth:

some do https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2pcs-Tubeless-Motorcycle-Bike-Car-Wheel-Tyre-Valve-Dust-Cap-Motorbike-Scooter-UK/142720186693?epid=25016477330&hash=item213ac93945:g:qQUAAOSwfshazd7n

Well that’s a revelation to me!