Hi Folks,
I’m returning my 350 Imola to a standard airbox. It had pod filters when I bought it and I can’t get the carbs set up right so…
I ‘won’ an Ebay OEM airbox for a V50 that should be the same as V35. What i can’t figure out is howthe carbs join the rubber section of the box? See photo below, the box openings are pointing straight ahead and the carbs are heavily angled. Am I missing some parts or just being ignorant?
Also where does the pipe that comes off the rubber part of the airbox (in the photo) go?
Thanks! That’d be great. I’ve no idea how the box will fit but I’m sure it will eventually! Bit of a pig to change the filter and madly complex design!
Cheers
So I eventually found a photo of a guzzi airbox thats the same or similar. Looks like there are additional elbow pieces - not on the fiche as far as I can tell.
airbox web.PNG
Found some photos but I think they don’t show everything. If you want them, PM me you email address and I’ll ping them over. I seem to have lost the ability to add pictures to forum posts at the moment.
I think there should be 2 plastic elbows on the carbs that go into the rubber moulding, as you say. Can’t remember how all the breather pipes join up, but I know mine was wrong when I got it, so I went over to Nigel at NBS to look at one there. Much better to fit it all with the tank off.
Yes you defo need the hard plastic elbows that bolt onto the back of the carbs. They are then just a push fit into the holes in the air box. I think maybe from the factory there was a zip tie involved to pull each one around tight. I’ve never bothered replacing those.
The other trick is where the other little MF threaded end at the front of the air box bolts into a piece of twisted metal bracket somewhere under the coils. The nut for that is best swapped out for a wing nut to ease future filter changes.
If it had pod filters when you bought it check the main jet size and make sure they are larger than standard.
I converted a 65C from standard airbox to pod filters and had to fit larger main jets from 105’s to 115’s and also lift the needles in the slides.
Thanks, it had standard main jets and I’ve played with one, two and several sizes bigger to no avail and also lifted the needle so as a non expert in carb tuning I’m cutting my losses and putting the original box back.
Well, after 10 hours to fit an OEM airbox the bike is finally running correctly. I can see why people fit K&N pod filters but unless you have access to a dyno and/or a carb guru and can set up the fuelling properly on this bike at least (350 with OEM Bosch ignition) will run like a pig. In this case definitely a lot more to it than simply sticking in a larger main jet (as much of the web would have you believe),
The remaining problem for the OEM box (other than changing the filter) is that the rubber section at the battery end cracks over time and good ones seem hard to find.
I changed the original airfilter on my 65C because it was a pig to work on , I fitted pod filters and like you had problems with the carburation, I fitted larger main jets 105 to 115 which helped but raising the needles a notch resulted in better fueling , then using a Gunson colortune I adjusted the air/fuel mixture screw to obtain the best mixture and a manometer to obtain carburettor balance.
It was a bit fiddly but now the bike is a joy to ride.
That’s interesting and a result! I raised the needle a notch and it was running rich LOL! I also considered going the colourtune route, interesting that was a success for you. I also priced an exhaust gas analyser but I’d spent enough time fiddling and it was getting expensive. I might give it another go one day - maybe when it comes to changing the air filter! I think the problem may lie in the idle jet and atomiser sizes but the ignition curve of the Bosch system may also have a role. It’s all a guess though based on the bogging down and humungous flatspot between 3500-5500. Interestingly my V65 Lario runs well on pod filters…
Cheers
I bought pods for my Veefer but then chickened out of fitting them. Still in a box somewhere. I got more concerned that if the back of the carbs were both unsupported and now carrying the weight of the pods then the rubber inlet stubs might give trouble.
You need to change air filters in the UK so rarely that the extra few hours hassle every few years on the std set up shouldn’t be too much of a bother.
Thanks, yes getting the plastic elbows in to the rubber holes was perhaps the most difficult - I ended up oiling one and removing the airbox back panel for the other. Any sort of clamp seemed overkill as you say - they will not move. Any idea what the copper T shaped tube inside the box is for? . I confess I have not yet fitted the twisted bit of metal bracket I do have one now but I’ve run out of patience for fiddling for now! Box is almost completely immovable without it.
They seemed pretty rigid to be honest but yes I can see your point; over time it might be an issue…Opinion suggests you also need a breather box of some sort (mine had) but you probably know that.
Yes I agree the mental scars should have healed by the time I come to do it again - and probs do 1000 miles a year- so should last a while…
I do have one now but I’ve run out of patience for fiddling for now! Box is almost completely immovable without it.