V50 2 Electronic ignition

Our recent breakdown in Switzerland near the Italian boarder with my old V50 2 ended with the bike being repatriated by RAC. (It had been 1200 miles without missing a beat) Problem occurred as intermittent misfire when under load and after persistent rain and damp conditions. 5 days with a local Guzzi dealer didn’t sort it. Got it home and checked the cables coming from the pickups as they looked tired. Found cable insulation damaged or missing on a couple of the wires as they leave the pickups. Are these original pickups still available? Also is the setting tool for the pickups available and is it a specilist job to refit the pickups if I take them off to deal with the wires. Also if damaged, would this have caused this type of problem?

Any advice welcome


Which ignition system is fitted? Motoplat?

Not sure but doesn’t V50 II have factory fitted electronic? The above problem sounds like the reason why the Mk III’s went back to points. If memory serves me correctly. Would it be possible to cut back and solder on new wires? Also sleeve them in heat resistant sleeving (fibreglass based etc.).

its has factory bosch system

you refit the sensors and set the gap using feeler gauges

my bike missfired as the wires between the sensors and first 4 way connector

only fix was 2 replacement sensors from gutsibits

if there is enough cable left you can cut and joint it

you will need an alternator removal too

You can remove and replace the wiring on the ignition units as long as you have enough cable to play with. Shrink sleeving is a very good idea. The tool you mention only sets them at 90 degrees and clearance. A piece of card of the right diameter with a hole which slips over the crank will do for setting the 90 degrees. The clearance cab be set with feeler gauges. Mark two lines from the centre first on the card at 90 degrees before cutting hole. The V 50 manual shows you how to set the first ignition unit (using the proper tool of course) in line (there should be mark/line on the ignition unit to help you line it up with the card line) when the Left hand piston is at TDC. The tool also gives the correct clearance at the same time. You then move the other ignition unit to be at 90 degrees to the other using the mark on your card. You will also have to maintain the correct ignition pick up and rotor clearance. The bike will run in this approximate position however it will NEED to be strobed at the correct RPM and final adjustments made-fiddly but do able. You can run the bike without the alternator and alternator rotor so adjustments can be made without them in the way. Again fiddly if you want to get it spot on, but once set that’s it. On my Mk 2 the control boxes and ignition pickups are Bosch. The Motoplat are apparently less reliable but worth sticking with if they work. Remember even many Jap bikes throw wobblies with ignition CDI’s regulator’s and alternators-despite what they say.

That’s great though a little daunting.

It is the original factory fitted Bosch system with two pick ups connecting via two cables per pick-up through a four pin connector to two boxes mounted behind the side panels which then connect top the coils mounted near the front under the tank. I haven’t established whether there is enough wire to get a good repair. Contacted Motomecca today and they can send them to someone to recondition /repair with some sucess. Now new ones available any more. However I’m tempted to have a go with my own repair and refit first. Thanks for the detailed description which makes good sense having read the manual a little. I have had a replacement charging system installed back along and already have this off and out of the way. Of course my problem may be nothing to do with this end of the bike but at least it eliminates an obvious dubious area.

Thanks again

Yes it is the bosch system and I made my own removal tool but have since changed the charging system so this is now only used on my lemans. Gutsibits eh! Might give them a call. Thanks

Got a late monza engine in my v35 now and the older bosch system is a joy compared to the points on the monza/mk3 v50 engine

Had to reset then several times to keep engine running well over 500 miles. Fitted a dyna S now

The repair to my original v35’s pickups worked well for nearly a year. Make sure you use shrink wrap not tape to cover the joints as there is a lot of heat under the generator cover

I’ve got the same problem with the insulation breaking up on the wires from the pickups. I have fitted heatshrink along the full length of the wires and have used heat resistant sleeving so hopefully they should last a few more years.

As well, if you can get it, heat resistant sleeving, I found some on eBay

Halford or maplin keep shrink wrap

3mm Fiberglass Sleeving 4mm Fibreglass Sleeving Other sizes by giorgio11185 on eBay

Sorry - joining the party late on this one. Adjusting the pickups is a pita due to there being no fine adjustment - just the clamp down screw. As well as ultimately strobing the two sides to ensure the timing is correct it is important to ensure that the gap between the trigger and sensor for each cylinder is the SAME. This model is notorious for having a flat spot around the 3k mark. If you have different air gaps betwixt trigger and sensor for each cylinder they go up their advance curves at different times, and that is a major cause.

Thanks for all the tips. I have been off the forum for a while sorting out my membership which had lapsed. Â Happy to report that I followed several suggestions and replaced the wires from the pick-ups to the 4 pin connector. I also had a completely dodgy HT lead on the right side which I have repaired and now she starts on the button and runs well. I will take the timing suggestion up and check this weekend adjusting the gaps if necessary.

Thanks once againÂ

OR this…


Good find!!

There are other sizes too… http://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/cables-wires/cable-accessories-ties-tools/cable-sleeves/?applied-dimensions=4294847266&esid=cl_4294967294,cl_4294956450,cl_4294958073&m=1