V50 rotor removal tool

Can anyone advise where I can purchase the tool for removing the rotor from my V50 II ?
Alternatively are there any drawings available so that I can make one myself as I have access to a lathe ?

My bike is almost ready to be started after a lengthy lockdown rebuild and I have just realised that if the timing needs to be adjusted then the rotor has to be removed first.

You can make a tool from an old cut off length of an allen key, I can’t remember the length of the top of my head. About 70mm I think. DO NOT be tempted to use an old nail, it is not hard enough and will get squashed in the crank (Don’t ask how I know :wink: )

You can remove the treading off a long 8mm bolt like this.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233925686806?ViewItem=&item=233925686806

Yes - you can cut the L off an allen key. Length is 53mm I think. As noted, it needs to be of a hard material.

But more to the point here. Be very very sure that you need to adjust the timing before going in there, it is a pig of a job. If you do go for it remember that not only will you need to get the timing right on both sides, but the airgaps for the two sensors must be identical. With no fine tuning on the triggers it is a real hit and miss job.

Thanks for the replies and I have ordered a removal tool from the seller on eBay. I am a sucker for tools and like to have the correct tool for the job, must have been influenced by 40+ years as a helicopter maintenance engineer !!!

I plan to check the timing with a strobe before doing anything else but there is no point in trying to set the carburation if the timing is incorrect.

Presumably, if the cam chain ever requires replacement the sensors need to be removed and reset on re-assembly.

Has anyone ever replaced the standard ignition system with a more modern aftermarket system ? Does such a system exist ?

To be clear - I would pull and clean the carbs 100 times before I attempted to set up the std ign on a V50 II. By all means check the timing and go in there and measure the air gaps but be very sure before you loosen any of the sensor screws.

Note - it really should never go out. Ever.

I’m hearing that cam chains are no longer available for this model.

I have heard of a couple of folks fitting other ign systems but I don’t think it is cheap. The std trigger control boxes (mounted either side of the plastic tool box under the seat) are very readily available and reasonably priced on the used market. I’ve blown one in 40 years and that was only a year or so back and at 60k miles. My bike is a keeper and I’m leaving this area as is.

The Dyna S system is the go to recommendation however it relies on the factory advance curve and so other mods have to be done to fit one. The usual thing is to fit a points plate and centrifugal bob weights from a V50/3 plus the coils, so it ends up being a not so cheap option

CHRIS

Thanks for the comments.
Bike is almost ready for timing and carb checks and I will then get it on the road to see how it feels.
My only experience of the V50 was a Monza several years ago which of course has the points ignition which on the face of it would appear to be a retrograde step suggesting that the MkII electronic system was inferior. I am just “arming” myself mentally in case I need to consider some form of replacement ignition system in future.
At my age I suspect this might be my last “biggish” road bike so I hope it will suit me and can be taken down to Spain for some more touring in the Picos mountains sometime soon.

You aren’t able to switch to points in ignition dept: Monza engine had a camshaft with points fitted to its end, MkII has different timing cover, with ignition fitted underneath the generator rotor. Camshaft just doesn’t stick out. There are some German electronic systems available for MkII, but at a price around 350 quid.

You can defo avoid this expense and then spend it in Picos.
And: as the cam chain in MkII has no sprung tensioner, one could think overstretched one is an asking for a disaster. Actually, when I did a swap for a new one some time ago, I realised, the gap between the crank sprocket and camshaft one is just five links - how badly worn must be the chain to affect the timing? Don’t overexcite then, just fix it, forget your background(a must!) - and enjoy while you can:)