Hello there,
My 1980 V50ii has just developed significant play in the steering head. I was just wanting to ask: in people’s experience, when do you know if it’s just a matter of gently tightening it up, and when is it time to replace the bearings? How tight is too tight?
Thanks for your help!
Liana
Having owned a V50 in the past from new and completing nearly 90,000 miles on it the head bearings were always a weak point, I would adjust carefully as it would be easy to over tighten and then could possibly ruin the very small ball bearings which are not up to modern day standards, have a go at adjusting but they may already be past their best.
Hello Liana, I would suggest that you pinch them up to remove the play. If after that there is a clunk (or feel any notch) when you move the bars side to side then the bearings will need replacing.
Thanks for - that’s good to know, I’ll try a gentle pinch, but it may be time to bite the bullet and renew them properly!
There is a taper roller conversion kit available for a V50, I had a V50 with worn out head races about 15 years ago, cant remember where the kit came from but it sorted the issue out. The original bearings were always a bit suspect.
Russell
When adjusting them, do them just enough to remove any free play, but no more. It is easier if you put something under the sump so the front end is up in the air. You can then easily push and pull the forks to see if there is any play in the bearings and swing the bars from side to side to see if there is any stiffness or notchy feeling.
Excellent advice, thank you all!
The thing is, balls are easy to buy (3/16 in size, if I remember), but races - unobtainable. I did such conversion for mine, where you actually swap just bottom bearing with taper roller, leaving upper one as it is(well, you can make a good one of both factory fitted ones). Important thing is, if you dare to make two seats for two tapered ones, yoke stem tube is not long enough now and lamp holders have much too much space between the yokes. With just one tapered, you buy another set of rubbers , fill the gap, job done.
I have always bought replacement bearings from Essex Bearings in Maldon, as far as I remember they come complete with races, I just send them my original bearings and they match them. Maybe worth a try if just pinching them up is unsuccessful.
I agree with Don, put the bike on the centre stand and get someone to sit on the pillion (or support the sump!) so that the front wheel is off the ground when testing the bearing, do not tighten so much that it is hard to move, but just enough that it moves freely without any play.
Unfortunately the V50 head bearings are cup and cone type with loose balls and wouldn’t be available from a bearing supplier. These would have to be from a Guzzi supplier. Gutsibits might be able to help with some used races, but I have often heard that they are unobtainable.
This is similar to to the kit I fitted to my V50 when the standatd bearings were shot.
The loose bearings for the originals are available new, the standard races are only available second hand and normally expensive for a good set.
Moto Guzzi Steering head bearing rebuilding kit special - small models
Russell
most bearing houses can match just about any bearings- often at better prices than OEM with same quality or better.
Thanks everyone - I tightened them just to the point where the play was gone, but during a shortish test ride, things felt great to begin with, but then gradually worsened, and sure enough the play is back. I had tightened the steering head fixing bolt and securing nut to what I thought felt right, but perhaps not tight enough? Do people have ballpark torque settings for those bolts? Or is this just a symptom that the bearings need replacing?
Looking at the parts book, firstly slacken off the 2 clamp bolts around the fork stanchions before making any adjustment so everything can move.
You adjust the bearings with the centre nut, number 10 and then the clamp bolt, number 8 should tighten around the nut to prevent it from coming undone. It does want to be tight, but remember it is only screwed into an alloy casting so don’t overdo it. Finally retighten the 2 stanchion pinch bolts.
I’m not sure about the purpose of the washer under the top yoke, number 6 in the book? I guess the tab locks into a recess in the bottom of the top yoke.
I’m going for the tapered rolller conversion at the bottom end, and sticking with balls for the top. Thanks for your help and wisdom!
Good decision! 
Wow, they really are shot. What are the cups and cones like? Ball bearings are cheap.
