Checking the timing marks on my V50 I can only detect two dinks which have been previously coloured which I think indicate TDC for each side. Have just successfully timed my lemans with strobe and static etc and now a full expert in the subject, will I have to identify and mark my retard and advance marks using a degree plate? Why would there be no other marks visible? How did Motocorsa do it last time with no apparent marks?Â
They are a pig to setup, which v50 do you have?
If you look very carefully you should find 4 marks, Â usually a S with a 10 deg indicator a few teath further round, and a D followed by a 10 deg marker.
The early v50 with the Bosch electronic ignition are quite involved to adjust, you have to remove the generator and alter the Hall effect sensors gaps … Good time to download a workshop manual. Â The mk3 with points is easy to time the left pot, but the right pot often needs the gap over adjusting to get the timing spot on…
You can run without the generator while you do the timing on a mk1/2 .
Strobe it to the 10deg marks while running at 1000 rpm, then check it advances as you Â increase rpmÂ
Â Â Â I have the a monza and a v65tt with the points setup and upgraded to a dyna s kit…worth every penny…Â
I can’t see the 10 degree marks just the S and the D though these aren’t that clear either. Had the bike for 30 years or so so any change to the flywheel has happened before I bought it. I will check again. Â
I have several flywheels and at least Â one only has s and d.
You can get a strobe with programable advance, they are not expensive…
Dial in 10 deg advance and the strobe compensates by 10 deg and you use the tdc mark or marks… S and D in our case… Magic bit of kit
A strobe with programmable advance. That’s clever. Will look into it. I have ordered a cheap degree pate but not sure whether this is an option to set my marks using this. Worth a try. Bigger problem is seized engine bolt which runs through a alloy tube in the bottom of the crank case, Damn thing has seized solid. Tried tapping from nut end with nut on but loose to protect threads. No go. Contemplating getting a workshop impact wrench. At least get it turning. Â
Can not get the side frame off . Any one ever had this. Probably should post a separate subject. Â
Few days of plus gas at each end then get engine nice and hot and try to rattle it left and right gently with an air gun or battery impact gun
Don’t go wild with the impact gun at first just few second burstsÂ
All sorted thanks to a friend with an excellent long bar and hex socket plus a litle help from wd 40 . Thanks for all the tips
What’s this got to do with timing marks ?Â