Does anyone here have a V7 Classic and know how to adjust the rear stop light switch so it operates more quickly? Mine works but needs a fair bit of pedal travel to illuminate and I reckon my back brake would be locked up before it comes on! Front is fine but can’t figure out how to adjust rear stop light illumination.
Thanks in advance….
I’ve one but can’t say I’ve looked. Usually it’s a case of a plunger that moves as you press the brake, the unit can be adjusted by a nut on the plastic body so more or less movement activates the light. Will check mine tomorrow and post a pic, in the mean time here’s what I think you’ll find (at least this is what Jap bikes usually use).
Thanks but I don’t think the V7 uses this type of switch.
Okay, I’ll have a look at mine tomorrow. 
You’re quite right Keith, I assumed it was like all my other bikes, instead it looks like it’s a pressure switch next to the banjo, not sure if that’s adjustable.?
I couldn’t see anything on the tinterweb either, have you found any more info.?
Thanks for your reply. Not found anything yet but will live with it and re-check it still functions from time to time. Needs to be operational for MOT. Gutsibits has the part but it is £50 for a switch! Assume replacement will also mean bleeding brakes due to the odd location adjacent to the hydraulic brake line union!
The only advice I’ve seen around them talked of spraying them with WD40, can’t see how that’d help myself but 
Looking at mine, the rubber cover was out of position and not covering the contacts properly, but it works fine.
Have you checked brake pad wear and fluid level?
You say you need more lever travel to operate the switch - If the pads are ok and the fluid level is correct where does this extra lever come from?
Both fine thanks. Pads are nearly new and fluid level also fine. Brake works perfectly too (no sponginess) so just a slight issue with the pressure switch I think.
My California 1100 has a hydraulic switch connection, if it helps you can buy from ebay a new banjo bolt with a new hydraulic switch on the end ( M10X 1)
£ 5.59
connect this into your brake system and swop over the wires , leaving the old one redundant - theres also a double banjo type as well
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Thanks Paul. Looks like a good solution for when mine decides to stop working! Better price too compared with “official” part.
Assume the fitting will require brake bleed at same time?
Mine will probably need doing next year so will probably wait until then.
Thanks again.
The front brake is a pain in the ass as well - mine failed mot last week because of this item, there’s a micro switch in the brembo lever that operates the circuit - this works on a 5 mm dia X 5 long piece of plastic that pushes on the switch to close it as the lever is released - this then closes the switch and turns the light off … this switch and plastic pusher assembly is held in with 2 off 9 BA screws + nuts - they are like watch makers size ! - mine fell on the gravel floor and became lost for ever - a model supplier has come to the rescue for the nuts and I made an insert from a small piece of 5 mm dia steel bar I have, filing it to the required length - and it must be 5 mm to work - again, sourced nuts via ebay - if I cant get this to work, this hydraulic switch will be purchased and connected in the front RHS circuit by the master cylinder and reservoir …
Brembo charge £ 36 for a service kit - this hydraulic switch and a drop of DOT 4 fluid is a no brainer solution for the front … The hardest bit was fathoming out the problem - but “Mario” probably on a Friday, had wired the brake light circuit to the tail lamp bulb element on one bulb and got it right on the other… I did the normal bit and checked the pins on the bulb for incorrect insertion and it was fine … swopping over the connections sorted it - I know this was from new as the brake light glass has never been off - and they use a self taper to hold it on - its awful design - the threads dont grip on retightening and the light glass drops off and breaks on the first run out … glued it together and drilled a 5 mm hole through the centre and now using a nut and bolt M5 to sort it - the glass can be bought for £ 35 when in stock …
Dont be afraid to google the part numbers on any item you pull off the bike - my Bosch fuel pump from a Guzzi dealer was circa £ 180 - ebay lowest price was ~
£30 new for a pattern pump - this part is used on the alpha spider and other cars, So Guzzi typical of any auto / bike / lorry maker - you go to market to buy a part rather than design + make it yourself …
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Guzzi “character” I suppose! Great insight thanks. Both mine work currently just that the rear requires more pressure than I’d like ideally. When I’m suited and booted it seems to work OK so will keep an eye on it - part of the usual ritual in owning any bike really.
Thanks again.
Typical Guzzi - helping owners become mechanics!
Wouldn’t change brand though……I’ve owned lots of different bikes of all makes in the past but always return to Guzzi. My current (and probably last) bike is a 15 year old time-warp condition V7 Classic and best bike I’ve ever owned. My old 1100 Cali Stone was a close second but combination of increasing age and weight of bike meant selection of the lighter V7 - similar power and weight to a Meriden Bonneville and great fun to ride.
If the V7 is the same as my V9 the adjustment that appears to adjust the hight of the lever … doesn’t!
All it does as fas as i can see is make the brake light stay on, or I suspect, not come on in a timely manner like yours.
Worth having a look
Thanks. Will have another look.