V7 Classic. Stumbling idle and stalling when warm

Has anyone else experienced this on a twin throttle body V7? I have been caught out in traffic a couple of times and it is not funny. I have found the throttle bypass screw on the right hand side was fully closed off, the left hand side was open half a turn. I have set both now at half a turn open but it does not seem to have changed things.
The bike did not do this when I first had it. The software is up to date and error code free (checked at Corsa last week).
There seem to be lots of people with similar issues on the American Wildgoose website.
Any solution known?
All the best,

I am having the same problem with my V7 classic, Only seemed to start after doing a long run from Southampton to Cheltenham and back recently .
Going to do a bit of investigation today, thinking it may be linked to a sensor. i will update if I get a result .

Given that Birch has been around this Forum long enough to have seen many new V7 rough running threads pass before his eyes -
is this not the ‘usual’ fuelling and engine management problem which manifests? (motor struggling with ethanol content and emissions regs, in short)

Not every fuel injected engine has a problem with ethanol.

I don’t think that’s relevant in a thread specifically concerning twin-throttle new V7s, which most definitely are prone to this.

What I mean is I don’t think ethanol content is the problem with the V7. I think it’s something else. My best guess, they’ve cocked up the design of the engine management system.

I regularly get the same symptoms with my 1100 Breva which a good tune up sorts out.

I have done all I can with it. I am a fairly good mechanic on mechanical things but fuel injection is a closed book.
Baldrick will have a go a week on Saturday.
The bike was not like this a few months ago. Something has changed but heaven knows what.
When (if) it is working properly I will report back.
Let’s end the thread here.

An update for those still interested.
Baldrick gave the fuel system a good ragging last Saturday. He carefully cleaned the throttle bypass adjustment screws, re-inserted them and then began to adjust them each side plus the collective throttle mechanism which is via a screw under the left hand side… Using a very impressive electronic vacuum gauge connected to each inlet tract he got the vacuums dead equal and the slow running speed even at 1100 rpm. He also reset the position of the pick-up rider on the cold start cam (which is on the right hand side throttle spindle only).
When I rode away the bike felt much better.
I had previously placed an order with Dave Shaw for an Aero-lite Finebau device and this arrived today. Fitting it is very easy, especially if you do not drop one of the original air temperature detector fixing screws down into the bowels of the bike.
As supplied it has all eight dipswitches on (the default condition). Has anyone fiddled with them or left well alone? Riding the bike today it feels good (better than the bitch it had turned into) but not a transformation, perhaps because Baldrick had done such a good job? Hence my question about fiddling with the dipswitches.
All the best,

Thanks for the update, David. It may be too early to draw conclusions about the FF unit as there will be a period of adjustment as your ECU wraps its head around the fresh data it’s receiving in the cold start cycle. Sorry I have no suggestions for a shape to put on the switches, stock settings left nothing to be desired in the case of my 2009er.