v7 racer overheating

anyone had their v7 overheating.mine does it after about 6 miles but if i get the revs over 3000 its fine.anybody give me any clues please???its a 2013 model done 17000 miles allways been serviced by corsa.sergio2014-07-11 22:35:22

Can you give some idea of the symptoms? Air cooled engines are fairly simple beasts and if the engine is overheating then I would expect higher revs to make things worse.

Certain combinations of load and ambient temp. can cause a 750 to overheat, to the extent oversize sump pans are available.
So first I’d make sure level is well topped up in this hot weather.
Then I’d cut the engine at a long stand e.g. multi-phase traffic lights or roadworks.
If no cure, maybe fuelling is lean?


bike starts and runs ok for about 6 miles in normal stop go traffic oil temp gauge ive fitted to dipstick reaches 250f then tickover gets rough and throttle below 3000 revs causes misfires and pinking.once over 3000 revs bike takes off like normal and runs fine.ive changed the oil to agip 10/60 as recommended by moto guzzi.its going in to be looked at tuesday but any ideas before then would be helpfull

If the first part of your journey is in heavy traffic and the second in more flowing, then the increased air flow would obviously improve the engine cooling. You say the temperature gauge is reading 250 f which may or may not be accurate, but engine oils are usually designed to work at around this temperature anyway so that shouldn’t be the problem. In the old days I would have suggested an auto advance / retard fault but electronics are supposed to have cured this, or maybe not!

Pinking means running lean or timing out

Best back to dealer for a check

ive cured most of it plug cap was not clicked on properly and wrong plug gaps still running a bit hot in stop go traffic but a lot better now.might look into getting the sump extender so it has a bit more oil

bad lambda sensor found and changed by corsa fingers crossed that was the problem

Also try the Finebeau forge Lambda sensor mod.Makes a huge difference on my lil’Breva.My ECU light comes on if I run at too low speed in hot weather or ocasionaly in heavy slow traffic in the cold.Goes out with normal running as soon as normal (rev it hard) service is resumed.Ach, it is just a silly computer, don’t let it rule you.

Sounds something like a problem I’m having with my V7 Stone. Testing various things and will report when solved . . . I hope!

They seem sensitive to stored settings on which to base the cold start function. Under no circumstances give an FI motor any throttle when starting unless desperate. It moves the goalposts on what it thinks the throttle position is vs. what the rpm sensor records and expected values from the last three or five runs. This blows its tiny mind and it starts under or over fuelling to make the numbers fit the curve. This “computer” is only juggling numbers to get what it thinks matches the curve (closed loop control), it has no other plan so feed it duff data and it’ll go away from the goal until it gives up and turns the light on.

The old BMW trick of keying on, moving the throttle from fully closed to fully open a few times then keying off seems to work as a reset. All this should actually do is store a single value of TP range, but without seeing the software who knows, the clean data may be obvious enough to make it wipe stored values.

Oh and bin the dipstick temperature gauge, the accuracy levels make them useless, the mechanisms do not like vibration and the failure mode I’ve seen twice is for the stick bit (soldered to the gauge case!) to drop into the sump. Bling for the Charlies to buy and talk about at Starbucks, you can tell an engine is hot by if it runs or not (plus the FI light).

AndyAndy M2014-07-18 08:34:37

running ok now agip 10 60 oil in and a finebeu unit fitted to richen the mixture

The "stop-go" is your problem, it's air cooled, so if you're not moving fast enough to get some air blowing over it, then it will overheat. Simple as that.    Interestingly painting the barrels & heads black may help. On the basis that a black body radiates heat more efficiently, apparently. My Spada had a tendency to overheat quite readily, I painted its barrels & heads with cylinder black AND fitted an oil cooler sump extension, did seem to help a lot.    At one point I was even considering fitting a 12V electric fan for those stationary episodes.

Just FYI, 250F is 121.11C which is well on the upper limit of the ideal temp band for best efficiency for an internal combustion engine, but if that’s the oil temp then the combustion chambers’ temp is much more than that, so no wonder it’s running rough and losing power. My Spada once got so hot in a queue for the Dartford Crossing that it virtually seized, pistons expanded so much they literally got stuck in the bores!