So I am new to guzzi’s. I have acquired a 2001 California EV 1100 with 5k miles on it. It’s been sat since 2013! I am changing all the fluids/ tyres etc. will be draining and cleaning the tank.
Do any of you good folks have any suggestions about things I should check/ service whilst she is up on the jacks with the wheels off? With such little miles it’s it worth stripping down and servicing the shaft drive? Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
Oooh. I know one. The clutch pivot is prone to crudding up, so that could do with a clean and then (so rumour has it) an internal “mud flap” cuts down on future crudability. Some fine PO cut a section of big tyre inner tube up for mine. Cable tied into place.
Hope this helps.
Added to the list! Thanks
Having gone this far, I would drop the swing arm out and grease the pivots. I also drop the UJ into a tub of oil overnight when I have things apart on the hope that some oil gets into the bearings.
The clutch arm pivot is a good call. You might want to put a new O ring on the mushroom activator whilst you are in there.This is what it all looks like. Also grease up the shaft and bevel box splines.
The other item to check on any new Guzzi is the large front engine mounting bolt. If it moves, pull it out and give it a good greasing before putting it back in. If it’s solid, then hope you don’t need to get into the front of the engine!
Thanks Don… I was trying to avoid it 
But just needed a nudge! I’ll get that swing arm and drive shaft off whilst the tyres are being changed. If you know of any good videos/ descriptions of the process it would be much appreciated. I have looked around but not turned up much.
I’m not aware of any videos, a search of the internet might turn something up.
To remove the swing arm, remove the large chrome nuts and that will expose the 2 screws that hold the swing arm in place. Once you remove those, it wil drop out. Getting it back in can be fiddly, just remember how it came out! When you put it back, make sure the protruding threads on the pins are equal as that is what centres the wheel and swng arm.
I agree Don, should be equal, yes, although some very slight variation can be ‘normal’ I’ve found, probably uneven wear over time, so I’ve become used to counting the ‘turns out’ and noting it down for reinstalling as a bench mark, then just snugging down each side equally so there’s free movement of the swingarm up/down and no undue pressure (side loading) of the bearings. And lots of grease 
Am I the only one to think Luigi was having an off-day when they decided to bung the clutch adjustment in such a **** difficult spot!
Replace the tyres! They may have lots of tread but at 5k they are probably the originals so way out of date!
I did, thats why the wheels were off 
. They were very perished
I think you may have to remove the two upper frame bolts, as the swinging arm hits them. In any case it makes it easier.
Thanks. Yes I have ended up doing just that…
It’s lucky I have decided to take the swing arm off. If I hadn’t I wouldn’t have noticed that someone had left both the top shock retaining bolts off!
Lucky that you spotted that one. Are you sure you didn’t removed the bolts when removing the pannier frames? My Cali 3 is an earlier model, the rear rack and pannier frames use the shock bolts as part of the mounting.
I’m sure, it’s a mystery!
So the threads are protruding 6mm on the right and 5 on the left. So yes, as you say Jeff not exactly equal. When I put it back together should I make them even or put them back as I found them?
Also, pretty much all the frame joints have lost their paint and have surface
rust. I am not wildly fussy but may well strip it right down in the future and get the frame re painted. So for now would it be reasonable to just clean up as best as possible and apply some acf50/ acp? Or, paint??
As Don says, the swingarm should be central in the frame, so equal ‘turns in’ from when the thread engages, be damned careful, they’re really fine thread and easy to cross thread or damage inadvertently.
As for the frame weld corrosion, personally I’d wire brush what I could, then use Hammerite smooth until you’re in a position to get it repainted fully.
Hammerite can be applied straight to bare metal and has rust inhibitors in the mix, not perfect for permanent jobs, but adequate for getting by. Brush-paints nicely as well 
Thanks Jeff!
Swing arm is out, good job too, all the splines were pretty much bone dry.
If you’ve got some, use a grease with a high molybdenum content.
So the UJ feels fine. I haven’t taken it out of the shaft though. do you think it’s worth it? And if so, how the hell do you get it out??
No, if its smoothly moving in all planes, no slogger, leave it be, just grease the bejeezuss out of everything 
