Thanks for that, I’ll get to the connector behind the dash panel somehow and after a quick coffee thats whet my task for the morning is, thanks again. Andy
Well went outside to have a look and everything all okay again… Decided to take off the mini fairing to get to the back of the dash panel but looks like its a headlight off job to get to it so had a play with the wiring which all looks good and secure. I had to set up the clock again as that had reset but it managed to remember the mileage (threw me though as its exactly 1200 which at first I thought was the time). Anyway, put the fairing back on and went to start it to go for a spin and all dead again… fairing off and all okay again, fairing back on and alll dead again… checked if fairing could have any impact but none but took it off again and all okay… very baffled now. Put it back on again and still okay so I think its a headlight job off when i get time and actually split the connectors and see what the score is.
As said loose connector, fairing is ‘jiggling’ it so works / not work
Yes, sefinitely a connection problem somewhere round the dash panel…
Leccy gremlins are cunning, it might ‘look all good and secure’ but it’s gone invisibly open-circuit, often unplugging and replugging something is all that is needed to clean the contacts and restore proper operation.
While the dash was working again I took it for an mot and all looked good until he said “Your rear lights not working” We checked all the fuses again but nothing and then halfway through the test the dash failed again (As did the guzzi in its mot!!). I’m sure its a connector somewhere and confident that the rear light is also a casualty of this problem. I also think th efairing is a red herring as its no where near any cables. I’ll have another look over the weekend but reading above looks like the tank off is required too. I’m off to the USA/Korea in Aug for 4 years so this will be going into long term storage but i’d like to sort it soon as the weather is lovely.
i have had a few problems with the wiring on me 1100 ,there is no easy way its just step by step . All the best
This has the indications of either a loose connector OR a wire rubbed against the frame and shorting.
An elektrikery fault that is intermittent is the very worst one to sort. There is something that is being disturbde each time you move the fairing. Any wire that is anywhere in the vicinity will be suspect.
It could be a loose connector or one under the tank or one to the headlamp. maybe from the dash to the headlamp… spend time LOOKING hard at everything with a bright torch light …one rule of tracing elektrikery faults is spend time LOOKING before you start getting out meters and diagrams
When you saw the rear light out, were the front side lights illuminated?Bit odd this, as the dash and sidelights have nothing in common as far as I can see on the diagram.
To be honest I’m not sure what the normal situation should be regarding lights. When the dash is working (still intermitant with fairing in place - I do think the fairing is a red herring as it goes nowhere near any wiring) the front light is off but this comes on when I start the engine however the rear light never comes on at all. The brake light works fine.When you say side lights I don’t think this 1200 sport has side lights, or does it??ThanksAndy
Tail light 5W and front ‘pilot’ in headlamp shell (but not headlamp bulb) 5W (?)
yes
All the rear lamps on my 1200 look like LEDs not a normal filament bulb!!! Am I missing something here?
Andy
This topic was originally started about 1100 sports of 1997 vintage your 1200 sport is the latest carc 1200 sport /breva 1200 etc range so people are getting crossed wires the modern Carc models use led rear lights as you say and a totally different wiring system ,Like brian says check the connection into the dash, These latest models have a CAN-bus wiring system which monitors power consumption on most circuits and shuts down any which pull more power than the design current i.e self monitoring for shorts etc hope this is of some use
regards keith 8 Valve Eagle2013-06-09 16:39:32
It is a good idea to pop your bike type into the strap line at the bottom there when asking for help , mind you still often get folk with older bikes relating to those and as 8V says the Carc bikes are all LED fuel injected alot different from the older bikes.
There is alot of manuals and info on “Greg Benders this old tractor” website free downloads to many Guzzi workshop manuals and other items of interest as well as links.
Guzzi adds to confusion refferring to the 8valve as 4 valve (per head) … the older 2 valve per head bikes are alot different with only a few things similar to the 4/8valve bikes.
Olderbikes share most items with often only the cosmetics changing from model to model SO the engine gearbox etx are mostly the same.
According to the wiring diagram in the workshop manual, you should have a front pilot bulb (5W) which comes on when the ignition is turned on, the headlight comes on when the engine revs rise to over 800 rpm.Is that front pilot light coming on?
Yes you are right I have a 1200 not the 1100. I just added it on the end as the initial issue was the dash going blank.I bought a manual off the web but to be honest it only has one wiring diagram and very little on simple things like removing the tank (although another member has posted that for a 1100 which I would imagine to be the same).I had another look at the wiring today without any luck and have 2 medicals tomorrow and am away for the next 2 1/2 weeks so I’ll try and have another look before I head off overseas. I’m hoping to put this in storage for the next 4 years ready for my retirement when I come back from this next (and last) posting.Thanks again.regardsAndy
There is nothing coming on with the ignition on (even when the dash is working) just the main lamp with the engine running. I would have thought if the LED rear lamp had failed I would get some form of fault code up but nothing at all.
There is a similar fault listed on the Guzzitech forum, though on a Stelvio. No front and rear side lights, and if he wiggles the wires under the ignition switch, the dash goes off.I would have a look at the wiring around the ignition switch.
On the older bikes every time this happens it is one of the 15 or 12 way blocks they never have a problem…till they do…IF it is a wiring block, wriggle…fix…go foo again…take apart clean with GOOD contact cleaner then use a thin that is THIN smear of silicone around the edge od the block to seal it. That not only seals it but helps stop it wriggling loose.