As mentioned in my introductory/compression thread, I am in the process of reviving a 1961 Galletto 192 AE, which is a 12V, non-magneto, electric start model. When checking for spark, I found that there was none, and figured that this was likely due to corrosion of the points. However, once I got in there, I found that I could get spark at the plug by manually opening the points, so they appear to be working fine when they actually open. So, I tried rotating the engine and found that the points simply weren’t opening. Next, I tried loosening the locking screw and adjusting the points, but even at full range of motion (in either direction), the points never open when the engine is rotated. All this leads me to believe that either the rub block is totally worn down, or that there is something wrong with the ignition cam/mechanism. Unfortunately, with the flywheel in place, it is a bit difficult to see what’s going on in there. Hoping for any insight into these questions:
Is it possible to change the points out without removing the flywheel?
Can anyone recommend a supplier for these ignition parts? I have heard that Guzzi Retro is good, but haven’t dealt with them yet.
Does anyone have a source of a flywheel puller for this model? I see that Stucchi has one, but it specifically says that it is for the 192 Pedale model, while mine is the AE (electric start). If this puller isn’t available, I don’t mind making one. Hoping someone might know the specifications.
Hi SMDL. I have just started the restoration of a Galletto AE, having completed a Galletto 160 a couple of years ago and that followed the restoration of an Ercolino with the kick start 192cc motor. I think you need to get the flywheel off to determine why you cannot set the points to open. The flywheel is attached via a taper and woodruff key to the crankshaft. Once the central nut is loosed you need to attach a bridge type puller to the flywheel. It has two tapped holes for this purpose machined into it. The apply pressure the the centre of the crankshaft and give it a sharp tap. It should pop off. I’ve had no problems so far but my AE looks like it spent time at the seaside and is very rusty so that be a challenge. Obviously you will have to loosen the starter and move it such that you can get the belt off. I bought a set of points and condenser from Guzzi Retro about a month ago. the cam for operating the points is a separate part that is bolted to the end of the valve cam wheel. Once you have the flywheel off and the plastic shield covering the points, all will be revealed! You are lucky that you have what sounds like a runner. I am short of the starter motor, the carburator and the voltage regulator!! You don’t have any spares do you??? Please send me a private mail and I’ll send you photos and all info I have on this type of motor. Cheers P
After sending the above note I had a thought. Maybe the points can is actually loose and not turning. This would explain why the points don’t open. Cheers Phil
Thanks, Don. I did see that thread, but it appears that the design of the AE model is somewhere different, so I thought I’d ask. I’ll keep looking and will be sure to post something back to the group once I get it figured out.
Thanks, Phil. This is very helpful, and I’m so pleased to have found someone who is ahead of me in the process! Hopefully, you won’t mind my asking a couple of additional questions?
Being that you have worked on both the Pedale and AE models, is there a difference between the two from the perspective of the flywheel mount or puller design? Were/are you able to use the same puller for both? If it’s the same, then I’ll probably just purchase it from Stucchi. From what I can see in the manual, it looks like the puller is supposed to thread both onto the main shaft and into the two holes in the flywheel. Both of these threads seem to be off unusual sizes, and might have some variability (based upon the thread you shared).
Do you have any suggestions as to how best to prevent the engine from rotating in order to remove the nut on the flywheel? I’m sure I can figure something out, but if you’ve already found an effective method of locking it in place, that would be helpful.
I was able to get the plastic points cover off without issue, and can clearly see that the points aren’t opening, but I’m just not able to see much of what is happening down where the ignition cam contacts the points.
Unfortunately, my Galletto, while very complete, didn’t come with any spares. However, I’ll definitely keep my eyes open for parts, and will be sure to let you know if I come across any that you are missing. Sounds like you have quite a project ahead of you, but you clearly have the experience to work your way through it.
I will send a private message, and very much appreciate any additional information you can share.
This is a really good suggestion, Phil! I’m not sure yet sure how the points cam attaches, but I’ll definitely have a look at that. I did try to put a borescope down in there to have a look, but it’s still difficult to see what’s what, and I’m looking forward to having a clear view once the flywheel is off!
I only have experience with the 175 and a 192 AP (non-electric start). Points can be changed without removing the flywheel but it’s fiddly. I made a puller as suggested above and the flywheel came off ok, I removed the nut with an impact gun so no need to keep the flywheel immobile really. Good thing about taking off the flywheelis that the dynamo belt can be easily changed too. Yes, Marco at Retro’ is the person to go to for spares, many of the other spares suppliers in Italy have become reliable or in the case of Stucchi, just thieves, so avoid. Shipping is not cheap but at least with Retro’ you know it will arrive efficiently. I do look on Ebay too, found a new CEV rear light I needed for the 192 on UK Ebay.
Well, I finally received the M7 1.0 bolts I needed for my puller, and attempted to remove the flywheel. Unfortunately, the threads in the flywheel seem to have been abused, and one of the bolts just pulls out from the flywheel with relatively little tension on the puller. Has anyone encountered this before? Is there a recommended methodology for a repair? I could likely re-tap to M8, or could possibly put an insert in (Helicoil, Timesert, etc.), but there is limited depth available.
Looking at the picture in the manual, the flywheel removal is a straight pull off the taper. so I don’t see any issues with retapping the flywheel thread to a larger size . I assume you can’t get a nut on the back of the bolt to pull against?
Hi Shawn, I agree with Don, drill and tap the current holes to M8. I also think you can drill the holes completely through the flywheel which will make threading easier and result in less risk of damaging the threads when putting load on them during flywheel removal. Keep us informed on progress. The flywheel and nut are well and truly rusted together so I foresee some fun and games trying to remove them. Good luck, Phil
I don’t think there is enough room to get a nut behind the flywheel, but will see if I can manage it before I drill out the holes. Beyond that, drilling and tapping should be fairly straightforward.
The large nut retaining the flywheel came off pretty easily with an impact, so that was fine.
It’s going to be a crazy week, so not sure when I’ll get to this, but I’ll report back once I do.
HELP PLEASE?
Purchased new points, went to fit them with flywheel off but something is very wrong, compared to ‘new’ bikes MG ones come as two parts. The engineer fitting them hasn’t got 20 fingers and really struggled because could not get gap open!!! Please let us know just what we are doing wrong??? Anybody doing electronic ignition these days?
Presumably if the points are in two parts, the stator plate has a fixed pin that they mount on. Something like this from my Stornello. Where the old points in two parts or did they mount on the stator as a single piece.
I have an english ‘operating manual’ (and italian workshop manual and parts list) which describes and shows the points set up. If you have an email address I can send you copies. There must be something wrong/incorrect with yours as the setup is very straightforward. PS the best supplier by far is Guzzi Retro if you need anything.
