I know I shouldn't like air in my brake fluid but..

…after changing the fluid on my G5 I was able to pull the brake lever in further. Thought there was probably air in the line but as the lever wasn’t in danger of hitting the bar decided to see if it cured itself. While riding it like this I found that I could get more pressure on the lever as I could pull it in further, also it gave the impression that the lever could move more as I squeezed harder which gave it feeling. I know there are probably good reasons for not having air in the line but now my brake has returned to coming on at full reach I cant brake so well and it feels very wooden. It goes against the grain a bit to write this, probably just me but done it now.
Is there a way I can get my brake to come on closer to the bars, dog leg or adjustable levers perhaps.Â

The part of the brake lever that pushes the piston in the master cyl can be reshaped to give a shorter reach. Just done this on my G5.
hope this helps.

This is ALWAYS what happens when you renew pads or merely  disturb them ~ the resultant long lever/pedal travel caused by the Pistons having further to go until pads have bedded into the disc is often confused with 'sponginess’  of brake fluid. I have had this same experience on both bikes and cars for the exact same reason.  Know what you mean tho about ‘more feel’, even if it isn’t technically  correct. Dogleg lever should help tho if finger span is a problem.Â

Later type levers have a cam adjuster so that you can vary the distance between the lever and the bars. Modern levers might look odd on a G5 but it is what works best for you that counts!

Could you point me to what modern levers fit, do you need to change master cylinder too? Will clutch lever need changing to match? I’m ok with the span on current clutch but the brake is not a 2 finger job like modern discs and was great for a while when I could squeeze it harder

I know this feeling well. I had all sorts of problems bleeding the front brake on my Convert, which is documented on here. It took all manner of parts, till a master cylinder from Ray (Ex smoking) cured the problem.
BUT, the problem was cured too well. My brake starts to bite at almost maximum reach (didn’t before) and therefore there is no “squeeze” before the bite, which makes it feel instantly hard, with no feel, just as said above. I don’t know why, because the pads are the same ones - probably the s. steel brake lines, I suppose, but it doesn’t feel nice anymore.

Have that same feeling on the front brake of my Convert which has new but bedded in pads and fresh fluid, always put it down to the original rubber brake pipes swelling under pressure, it does give you the confidence to haul on the lever without risking a front end lock up.

I rarely use the lever at all. Just stand on the pedal.

With linked brakes ,oh yes.

You are supposed to use both brake controls, but never mind. :smiley:

Linked only is for where the road surface “is not ideal” I.e. Possible chance of locking up the front.Â

And going back to my motorcycle tuition, I 'member  being told front only is for controlling speed of descent downhill.Â

I wasn’t using the front much as it’s not that nice to use at full stretch, but it was nice for a while with the air in the system. Using foot pedal mainly wore out my back tyre in 5000 miles, so I wanted to wear the front and try another tyre make got a change.

On my Mk111 linked puts on the rear first, then the front.
It releases the front first.
This is how you are supposed to brake.
And with experience you can use the link pedal to only put on the rear brake.
Or to have the front lock up, release slightly still braking on the rear and then re apply.
Simple, elegant and brilliant.

Ref newer levers.
I posted some information a few weeks ago under “Dog Leg Levers”
Dog legs aren’t available to fit the old carriers.
In order to fit them I got carriers, levers etc as a set from Gutsibits.
Once you have the carriers you have a fair choice of levers.
Ref linked brakes
I was under the impression, as noted by Ian, that the integral braking systems valve arrangement was designed to manage the front rear emphasis for safer riding.
On the T3 Cali, EV and the Mongrel I find the front brake lever of limited use for 80% of riding and essential for 20%
All the best

I’m in the habit when stopping uphill of only using the front brake, then the right foot touches the ground and the left foot stays on the peg to go put into neutral and back into 1st for pulling away. I’ve been doing this for a long time and it means controlling the throttle and front brake at the same time but saves lifting feet up and down from side to side. This is easy with a 2 finger brake action, not so easy with my Guzzi brake as it is, in fact I think I have started using 4 fingers on the brake and controlling throttle with just my thumb wrapped round it on occasions. I think I need the  dog leg levers that you mention Steve, can you post a link to the parts you mean?


I do this on the flat too. Takes a bit more effort uphill but comes naturally usually.

Hi Griff the carriers and levers are from later model Guzzis (Cali EV etc)
If you ring Gutsibits they’ll know exactly what you mean.
I’ll look back through my emails and try to find the list I got from them.
All the best

Just wondering if I revert to non stainless brake line would i get back a bit more movement in the lever, as it would of been when new? Seems like a cheaper option than getting new carriers/master cylinders/levers.
Or if I replace carrier/master cylinder, what year or model should I look for?


Retro fitting squishy old brake lines sounds an interesting premise here.

If the main issue is that the lever bite point is too far out from the bars and there is no adjustment on that then I’d just be looking to file a little off the lever where it interacts with the piston in the m/cyl so as to allow it to come back a bit more.

Squishy sounds good!
I did say I was reluctant to mention that I liked air in the fluid, but it felt more controlled/less wooden. There are probably good reasons for not having air and for stiff stainless lines but maybe for day to day riding and my style of braking a bit more squish would help.
I was thinking of filing off lever but does it rattle around  afterwards?
Not too sure of the physics but would an expanding brake hose still give the same pressure on the brake pads as a stiff one?Â

I’m outa here! This is getting crazy :smiley: