lemans 2 Dyna 3 electronic ignition fit

I mentioned on my other thread regarding pinking that I was planning to try to fit the dyna 3 ignition kit. Well I am trying. Has anyone recent experience of this. Simple issue is the three cables attached to the base plate are shrouded together in a grey stiff sleeve with only about 30mm of the coloured cables and their terminals showing. Apparently you are supposed to take two of the cables through one of the gromets on one side of the distributor and the other through the opposite side. There isn’t enough free coloured wire to do this so have people had to strip back the grey sheathing to enable this? I guess it is what I will have to do but given this kit is specifically for this bike I would have thought they would have provided enough free slack without chopping into the sheathing. I am also assuming that the connections to the corresponding cables from the module mounted to the frame occurs outside the distributor housing. Finally, I connected what I thought was the spare red cable with spade connector to the coil as instructed but the other red cable is to go to the spade connector under the frame which feeds the coil via the loom. However this cable has a thin circular connector rather than a spade so I am now in doubt whether I have fitted the correct red cable to the coil. Â

Any clues welcomeÂ


I installed dynatek ignition on my T3 a while ago and found it straightforward (and I am no mechanical genius), so I wouldn’t have thought you should struggle. There was enough room before the grey sheathing to let me get the wires out the distributor housing, so I didn’t need to do any stripping back. On the red wires to the coils, the only issue I had was that I put the ignition module behind the left sidepanel, so had to extend a couple of the wires to reach the coils.

When you say one of the red wires has a “thin circular” connection, is that like a very thin bullet connector, or a ring connector? Some of the connections are made using very fine male and female bullets, but they are all colour coded and match up. I realise this might not be very helpful! If you are still struggling, I can get the tank off the T3 and try to take some photos, as I have certainly been happy with mine.


Thanks John

I Â think I have located my confusion. Had a bit of help from Larry at Dynatek technical. I have overlooked the separate red wire with spade at one end and narrow bullet at the other still in the box. Point 8 of the instruction had me at a loss. So I think I am sorted. Thanks once again. Will press on with the conversion tomorrow and hope all slots into place. Â


Fitted the dyna 3. I think it is working reasonably well in that the bike is running but when initially setting up the static timing using a bulb, but I found that the sensors for each side had to be at their limit of travel plus a compromise position for the distributor housing which is different from the position set up for the points, to get as close as possible to the correct position where the light just comes on at first advance mark before TDC.  When I used the strobe at tick over to check  I have one side bang on and the other side a bit low in the window which I assume is slightly too advanced. But I have no further travel for this sensor. As Dynatek pointed out they have been putting these units in these bikes without a hitch apparently for 35 years until I came along. Can anyone suggest where I might have made an error. I am sure we are looking at the right marks on the flywheel. I haven’t checked the strobe at the full advance marks which I believe I should do so this will be my next task. It just seems too tight to be correct. Are the timing marks on the flywheel broadly the same for all lemans etcÂ



If you have run out of adjustment to advance one cylinder, you will need to retard the other, then advance the whole distributor - does that make sense? You just have to get the pick ups for the two cylinders the correct angle apart, and there should be enough adjustment for that.



Thanks once again. At present the two sensors are at their limit of travel towards each other so I’m thinking I need to have another look at this. Possible seeing the wrong line. Need to check.

Keep you posted Â

File the screw slot bigger?

Mistral who did Rita would say average the error - one a bit advanced the other retarded by the same amount.  But then of course the rotor ridges are not independently adjustable.Â

Sadly am sitting in my office awaiting collection by RAC having broken down on my way home from Bude in Cornwall. Engine is racing and has no power. It happened quite abruptly having just taken me around 25 miles from Bude to the outskirts of Bodmin. Â Been to local mechanic for Dyna test this morning but problems prevail in getting the timing to work out with this system. Checked the flywheel marks are correct and the pickup or sensors need to be able to go closer together. No matter how much jiggery pokery we do if you get the right timed the left is out. What is interesting is that on the right side there is the D dinked into the fltywheel in the window and then a dash dent (first timing mark) then a further dash dent ( full advance mark) but then there is a further dash dent which doesn’t appear to relate to anything. Initially the mechanic though that the first dash dent was the TDC rather than the D itself but the next mark was too far away to be the first timing mark. The D itself is definately the TDC mark which checked out with the degree plate. Middle mark at 8 degrees and the full advance at 34 degrees. As it should be on both sides.

So I can only conclude that the sensors attached the dynatek base plate are simply too far apart and don’t have the travel to allow timing of both sides

Yes there is an ‘odd’ extra line on mine too. Not sure but got a feeling it might have something to do with alignment with the crank? Â

Afterthought - yes D / S are at 0 degrees BTDC, Â tho LM’s are actually 8 degrees advanced when ‘fully retarded’, that puts the first (fully retarded) line at roughly two flywheel teeth away from the stamped letter. Â (Each tooth is 3.75 degrees if memory serves.) Other models are 2 degrees BTDC I think meaning the retarded line is almost on top of the letter. HTH


Turns out my focus on the timing issue for my breakdown was premature since coincidentally when returning to the bike with RAC guy I felt the throttle a little strange and turns out my RH cable had broken just inside the twist grip. RAC men have cable repair kits you know.  However returning to my timing issue, lemans book says 8 degrees retarded and advanced 34 degrees BTDC which checked out yesterday with the degree plate. But good to know others have this third line after the advance mark on the right. So establishing I have the right marks in the right places  I am still struggling to get the two sensors closed together enough to get both side on the mark even for the static timing set up. The mechanic said yesterday that he believes the plate sensor assembly is incorrect. Will get second opinion on monday and will keep all posted but for now may have to revert to points.

Maybe a daft suggestion, but can you get a protractor at the Dyna backing plate to measure the angle of separation between the sensors? That would tell you if it is incorrect.

Yes I’d like to know how many degrees error it is.Â

Are you thinking it should be around 90 degrees centre to centre of the sensors? I will try and check

Exactly what I was thinking

If on the dizzy then the shortest angle should be 180 - 45 = 135*, or, Â 360 - 90 / 2 = 135.Â
So like 12 to 4:30 on a clock face.Â

I should have known it would be more complicated!

Sod’s law innitÂ

Here is my setup. if I rotate the whole distributor assembly clock wise to enable the left ( lower) sensor to align on static set up, I move the right (upper) sensor away from alignment. Can’t help thinking I am missing something. They appear to need to be closer together.Â

Doesn’t look too far off to me.

Can you find the absolute TDC of each piston on compression stroke by feeling the piston is exactly at the top of its travel (shove drinking straw down plug hole), then see if you can get both sensors to line up like that. Remote possibility there’s an error on the flywheel stamping or you are still looking at the wrong marks.