TLDR: see paragraphs at the bottom :o)
I picked up the 32-year old Guzzi 750T about a month ago. The initial 110 mile ride home was ok, but the handling was a bit wayward, and the ergonomics didn’t feel quite right for me. I rode it quite hard to locate those items that were loose, and to get some idea of the usual/max fuel consumption (48mpg in the end). On arrival home, many parts needed tightening back up (torque wrench set to ‘careful now’), for example the silencers, pillion pegs, top shock bolts etc etc. Pumping up the tyres properly, setting the shock springs to max, and setting the shock dampers to 4 (max) cheered up the handling no end, but the bike still had the pneumatic line missing from between the forks, and they were, well, flaccid is the best word.
I managed to get a piece of the right sized hard plastic tubing (thanks again James!) and fitted it into the fork tops. The result was much better control of the front wheel but far from perfect. I replaced the egg cup of oily water in each fork leg with the required amount of ATF, and things were a little better again, but now the fork seals were leaking a bit. Oh well….that’s a winter pre-MOT job.
I’ve ridden the bike around like this for 500-odd miles now, slowly getting used to the relatively poor brakes, the still-linked brakes, and the handling. However, the oil pressure lamp was lighting with increasing regularity, and finally wouldn’t go away on my first ride out to the MGCGB Somerset branch. Ironic really. Anyway after a chat and check with the guys there, and since the engine still started, ticked over evenly and kept going quietly, the verdict was that the oil pressure switch was dead. I rode home gingerly in any case, but all was well, except that blooming light was on all the time now.
I ordered a load of stuff from Gutsibits, and when it arrived I set to, trying to swap out the oil pressure switch. Seat off, side panels off, tank off. A couple of hours later I came to the conclusion that to access the switch, I would need to remove at least the right hand carb, and the top of the air box, so that I could lift the air box up a little. Despite a lot of jiggling and swearing I was unable to get any part of the airbox to move very much at all. I had done some research on the various Guzzi fora and so I was prepared to a certain extent, but I can easily see why people remove the airbox and go over to individual pod filters. Gaaaah!
With the carb swung up and tied up to the frame rails I found I could reach the switch with a 21mm ring spanner, so I undid it. Then I had to lift up the now loose airbox a bit to get the old switch out of its mounting hole. Finally!
I popped the new switch in and tightened it up. I then noticed that the wire connecting the switch had broken internally, due to twisting while I took the old switch out - with my average sized hands you cant just reach in and easily disconnect the wire! Another thing to fix, but at least that was easy. Note that it took another half an hour with some very long pointed pliers to get the switch connector back on the switch, thanks to the airbox. Grumble.
I put the bike back together, and decided to go out for a ride - gotta love being retired! The new oil pressure switch works perfectly - hot or cold, regardless of revs, it does what it should. Hoo-blooming-ray. However there was now a new problem - the bike was very unwilling to rev, and top speed was down to about 55 mph. Not good. While riding I can feel that the bike is missing, stuttering and holding back.
So, since then I have :
- cleaned and regapped the plugs, colour was fine.
- Cleaned all of the metal mountings of the coils and bolted them down properly (one was loose due to a very poor quality bolt having been used),
- Cleaned out the main jets of the carbs - nothing much to note there
- Cleaned out the carb fuel filters
- Re-balanced the carbs with a Morgan Carbtune Pro
All of this had led to some small improvements so now I have a 65 mph top speed, and a rock-solid idle, but still with the misfiring and holding back at large throttle openings and under load. So now it must be a lack of fuel, air or sparks at higher revs.
What to try next? I’m thinking:
- check the petrol filters on the fuel taps - I may have imagined it, but I thought I heard a rattle when I removed the fuel tank…
- Test the spark plug caps with a multimeter (I can do this)
- Check the spark plug coils and leads. Since they only seem to be failing at higher revs and under load this might be difficult. Suggestions please!
- Replace the air filter element…….I have a new one, but………and the old one was working OK I suppose.
I would be glad of any further suggestions to get this fixed. If I have to resort to swapping for new parts, so be it.
Cheers, Bob