Hi there everyone, I’m new to the forum and new to Guzzi’s. I just got myself a 1974 850T which I have been absolutely loving, I can’t get over the motor and how it rides, but I’m sure you all know the feeling too. Despite everything amazing about it it’s also clearly been a little mistreated in its life; amongst other things, somewhere along the way it’s had all its indicators removed and the stock switchgear was replaced with just a headlamp dimmer and horn. There’s no way to operate indicators even if their were any. I’m aware that the 850T’s stock switchgear what with it’s slightly convoluted barrel system of operating the lights was prone to failure, so I’m not too mad about losing the original or replacing the current switchgear with an original part (which seems to be unobtainium anyway). However, I’ve been having some trouble trying to find replacements or aftermarket options that would work with my bike without too much screwing around with the electronics (which already seem fairly screwed around with by a previous owner) and any help or suggestion in terms of finding a new set of indicators and switchgear that I could install would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for reading!
I put Domino switches on mine a few years ago. A bit fiddly getting the pins in the molex sorted but well worth the effort and a huge improvement on the original fittings. Also, it’s worth changing the fuse box for a modern blade type for reliability.
I’m guessing from your description that, at the very least, you still have the Daytona 4C throttle (metal and has throttle cables but no switches on it)? There are a few options open to you (including fitting Domino switches as Nick suggests) but your throttle will define the starting point.
Also: define ‘screwed around’ because you may be heading into a very deep pit. Pictures would help.
Yeah it’s got the tommaselli throttle on it with no switches or anything. I’ll have a look at domino and see what I can find.
When I say screwed around with I mean that it seems to be mostly there and mostly correct, but there’s a couple weird things added. Namely the ignition now works like a car, i.e. you turn the barrel clockwise to start the bike, which I’ve heard was apparently a feature on the police models of the T and T3, and also that along the way someone has decided to add a little switch underneath the headlight which turns the headlight on and off (not sure why they did that) everything else though appears to be mostly correct though.
edit: I forgot to add in my above post that the previous owner of the bike claimed that despite the indicators being missing, the wiring for them was still present and capped off… somewhere… I haven’t had the chance to look for them yet.
Hello Jonah, welcome to the forum.
I originally changed the switch gear on my 850T for later Lego brick switches. Gutsibits have the right hand one click here and the left hand switch from a firm of highwaymen click here
They were never that good though, I may have them in my garage somewhere, but have probably thrown them away. I use the original right hand switch as start, and the kill switch now turns the lights on. On the left hand side the horn and flash do the correct functions but the indicator switch is now for dip to main beam.
The original switches were very lightly built and I have rewired the bike using relays to ensure that only low current passes through the switches, even the dip/main switch. It works for me but I do not want indicators on my bike, anyway I sold them!
Domino switches seem to be the way ahead if you want all the functions including indicators.
If you would like an A3 colour wiring diagram for your bike please let me know, see here for details. click here
Best wishes Chris
Hi,
As somebody else has already mentioned your search for switches could get very expensive. You could try these
And
They’ll work with not to much messing about with the wiring and won’t cost a fortune.Ive used these more than one of the old Moto Guzzi’s that I have.
Thanks a lot for your help Chris, seems like domino switches are the way to go since the lego brick ones don’t sound all that great. Would you suggest installing relays if I end up going with domino switches? I’m happier working on the mechanical side of things and have never really gotten on with the electricals so any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks!
www.thisoldtractor.com_guzzitech.dk_pdf_charging-around-the-circuit-john-noble.pdf (3.9 MB)
I found this to be useful. From thisoldtractor.com
Putting in relays to feed the headlight is always a good idea, but I’d no longer classify it as necessary with the modern Domino switches as the copper contacts are more than capable of carrying the 5 amps required for a 60-watt high beam. However, when rewiring a bike of any make from scratch, one thing I always do is to wire such that hitting the starter button turns off ALL the lights, just to give the battery an easier life.
Probably unnecessary with modern switch gear but it wouldn’t hurt.
Regards Chris
Unfortunately the last guy removed the right side switchgear too, so no starter button sadly. The bike turns over like a car, ignition happens when you turn the key fully clockwise. I imagine that there is probably a way to wire it up so that it kills the lights while you turn the barrel over… But that’s a tad above my electrical pay grade.
I’ll see what I can get away with in terms of not installing relays, but it’s always good to be prepared. Thanks again for the insight!
Hello Jonah
The only reason I installed relays throughout was because I am using the original switches, albeit for some different functions. I wanted to keep higher currents away from the handlebars, especially the headlight.
I have refurbished them recently in my current 25 year rebuild (don’t ask) but yet to try them in again anger. They worked fine before.
I put in blade 6 way fuse block but had to make a new holder inside the head lamp shell for it. Added a few relays to take the load off, with indicator relay under the tank
This is why a part of me still wants to try and find the original switches somehow, they do look really clean on the bike! Alas, I suppose practicality is good.
Fit an LED headlight bulb and you reduce the wattage drain for the headlamp bulb to 35w.
Yes but…
a) it’s still illegal in the UK to fit an LED bulb to a motorcycle headlight that was never designed to take one, even after the latest round of MOT changes last month. (Reading the change in regs regarding cars, I think they simply forgot about motorcycles - again)
b) the MOT stations may or may not fail you depending on how the tester feels - they don’t care over here as long as dip and high beams are within limits
c) don’t use a Chinese one. Buy the (rather expensive) Phillips Ultinon Access series as they are a drop-fit in size and positioning for halogen bulbs, draw only 16 watts and more importantly, they meet CE regulations for replacing halogens with LEDs. No blinding oncoming drivers with light scatter and a really good high beam / dip beam cutoff.
Whatever you end up doing, something I consider essential for all Guzzi of this era, is to add an inline fuse on the positive feed, as close to the battery as possible. The standard Guzzi system of that era was to provide fuses only after the ignition switch, so the main feed wire from battery to ignition switch isn’t protected at all. A short to “earth” on that will most certainly lead to melting the insulation of that wire and anything beside it in the loom, and a likely fire. Another advantage of the inline fuse is to provide an easy way of isolating the entire electrical system (save the starter motor) when carrying out any maintenance.
Looking at the wiring diagram, looks like there a two spare fuses. On the later G5 and SP1000 one of these is used for precisely this.