Oil Thread - sorry

Need an oil change on mine and bought a gallon of Halfords 20W50 for Classics http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_166289_langId_-1_categoryId_165581#tab2


It says its API SE CC standard. Is this OK as

tris2014-03-02 12:39:56

Preferable for early models whose seals may not like synthetics. AFAIK should be OK. Should also have enough ZDDP for flat cam followers. (Unlike some of the newer eco-friendly stuff. Apparently.)

Silly question BUT have you looked in the Guzzi manual for the spec for your bike, they usually list more than one then you can cross ref online.

I did look at the owners manual but all I coild find was if I speak Italian, English or French it needs Agip 20W50 but if German 10W40 but no standards show

Kool then you should be OK buddy … to be fair one of the best sites to get help on oil type is Opie oils club members get a discount and they often have free delivery deals on.

The irritating thing is often Guzzi give confusing info on the oil for any bike so there is actually alot of leeway.

My V1000 is a 76 and works BEST on the old style 20/50 even the wilkos own The V11 Le mans seems to work better on the semi synth Castrol 10/40 … the owners manual will often give the standard and to be honest they are older than the current oils in many shops.

CARC bikes aside the ONLY Guzzi where the oil IS very critical are the hydraulic tappet bikes THAT has to be exact (Of course the MSG, but then they are very specialist indeed.)guzzibear2014-03-02 13:58:31


Smurfed about a bit and had a look at Guzziology (DOH) and the conecsus is that it should be SG so so Halfords SE no good and has gone back

Thanks GB went to Opie Oils and got some Motul 20W50 API SG so all is now good

Well done buddy Opie are very useful and they, I find, very compeditive.

Halfords USED to be able to compare oils and such but nowadays they are like all multi stores not spending money on training and paying as little as they can get away with.

This has turned out a useful oil thread …well worth noting if YOU read this …LOOK at the ratings. Of course older 70’s Tontis it will not matter any oil is higher rating that what was available in the 70’s , remember the green goo that was Duckams anyone? guzzibear2014-03-02 16:24:39

Oh yay-yas!

I do remember the Green Duckhams and thought it was the “Dogs Danglies”


Didn’t appear too cause any more harm to my Hilman Imp than had alreday happened … though it did tend to piss oil all over the place so probably was running on new oil pretty much all the time

Plus found this,

Onbalance though I’m more likley to ride at the 30 deg C end of the spectrum than I am at -10 deg C so 20W50 to API SG or better will do!tris2014-03-02 19:05:55

Had to look up ‘SE’, ‘SG’ etc. It’s an American Petroleum Institute (API) standard for performance standards for lubricants. Seem higher codes (now up to ‘SN’) means increasingly reduced phosphorus content which poisons catalytic converters. “Phosphorus is a key anti-wear component in motor oil and is usually found in motor oil in the form of zinc dithiophosphate. Each new API category has placed successively lower phosphorus and zinc limits, and thus has created a controversial issue of obsolescent oils needed for older engines, especially engines with sliding (flat/cleave) tappets.” However: “API, and ILSAC, which represents most of the worlds major automobile/engine manufactures, states API SM/ILSAC GF-4 is fully backwards compatible, and it is noted that one of the engine tests required for API SM, the Sequence IVA, is a sliding tappet design to test specifically for cam wear protection. Not everyone is in agreement with backwards compatibility, and in addition, there are special situations, such as “performance” engines or fully race built engines, where the engine protection requirements are above and beyond API/ILSAC requirements. Because of this, there are specialty oils out in the market place with higher than API allowed phosphorus levels. Most engines built before 1985 have the flat/cleave bearing style systems of construction, which is sensitive to reducing zinc and phosphorus.” http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil

I’ve been using the Halfords oil for a few years, not noticed any ill effects.

You know, I suspect you could put in almost any lubricating oil and most would never notice any harmful effects.The table above is flawed though, as it seems to be about ambeint temperature, so does not take into account the actual working temperature of the oil, and on a modern air cooled engine with a catalytic converter, designed to meet the stringent anti pollution laws, this is very much higher than ambient.The new CARC bikes run very hot, which is why a 10w60 oil is specified. But all air cooled engines will run hotter than a water cooled one. The first figure of the specification is how the oil works at low temperatures, which is why 10w40 is now specified for most earlier Guzzis as it gives better lubrication at start up, and reduces drag at the same time.

with my temp gauge i have seen 140C on the heads when stuck in traffic.
Normal running is 95C

My old haynes t3/g5 manual states 10/50 or 20/50 engine oil. There is a 10/50 motul 5100, listed on the opie site but not sure it may be synthetic, then they list the classic castrol xl 20/50 and silkolene classic 20/50. Any recommendations before i take a wild stab in the dark?

I would go for a standard 20/50 grade. The Halfords one is good. If going for Opie Oils, there is a club discount. Go to the main club website, members section and look for members discounts (if that doesn’t work, PM me and I can give you the details)

Millers classic 20/50 in all my bike its got to be better than any 1970 /1980 oil

the only oil not to use —I had a caretaker phone up at work to say he had dipped the oil on a pump bearing and it was drastically low and asked what to put in me in my younger days and full of wisdom said ANY OIL IS BETTER THAN NONE. END OF CONVERSATION, phoned up 3 hours later to say it had seized solid, got on site and checked it yep seized and every thing in housing sticky as hell , when asked what he put in he gave me a bottle and said I recommended any oil so all he could find was BOILED LINSEED OIL
dick head sprung to mind

I find the Un-Boiled much better,thought everone knew that

This one is so classic it’s even in a metal can! Remember them? http://www.amazon.co.uk/Comma-CLA20505L-20W-Classic-Motor/dp/B002RPJ67E/ref=pd_cp_auto_0

This 'un?    http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_166289_langId_-1_categoryId_165581   Ooh and again...

That’s the one.