After lengthy and EXPENSIVE house restoration
work, never buy a house older than your grandparents, I am happy to have got the
ball rolling with the guzzi this week. I have posted some of these early pics
before in discussions, but, I shall begin with the starting components.I
have built a few outfits, some I have been proud of, but some not. I have owned
bikes of all shapes and sizes, however, a Guzzi rig is the future for my family and I. Here we have a 94/95
cally 1100i, I picked this up locally with 21k on the clock for sensible money.
bought this a few months back, a hedingham XL with towbar and as it was
originally fitted to a 95 cally, it has all the brackets and clamps to
of a squeezeA
chap who has returned his cally outfit to a solo due to his arms not having
adequate strength, what nonsense, but hios loss I suppose, paid a third of what
they cost new
After lengthy and EXPENSIVE house restoration
So, after a couple of hours with the disc cutter removing the mounting hardware
my garage floor now looks
squeeze and the tub is in the ford estate, off to the paint shop.Dropped
it all of this evening at the paint shop, a good friend who has done all my
painting, and hopefully he can match it all up. I cant find the paint codes so
hes going from his chip books. Fingers crossed he can match it all up to this
scheme, hes asked that I leave the arrangement to him, nerve racking but lets
see what he comes up with. I also dropped a fuel can as I hope to mount it
between the bike and tub on a lockable frame. Heres what hes got to match
I was offered a car type rear wheel for the bike with a brand new 135 15
michelin on, while I would prefer to get a smaller 15inch rim laced up onto my
hub, it would be a better option financially. I could also sell the stock wheel
on to recoup some of the Â£150 the guy wants. The problem is I heard from this
chap some time back and now I cannot get hold of him.
This is what I left with the painter, off up to slide the leading links in now, I guess Ill just have to wait and see what the outcome is with the paint.
On alot of Guzzis the paint codes are not given only Guzzi know why??? BUT many paints are the same as, depending on who was owning Guzzi at the time.Aprillia had the same colours on many bikes and older bikes had , from what I have found out, Fiat colours, go figure.If you are ever at a show where bikes are on display at other Clubs and you DO see a colour that matches (The Mandello Red on the V11 is a typical example) Ask them, I have even gone into an Aprillia Dealer to ask for a colour chart in the past.I guess with older vehicles Guzzi were not too sophisticated and colours are not too difficult to match, the newer you go especially that damned Red they are very sophisticated, it is a 4 paint system… primer… silver basecoat … Red topcoat … clear coat and an absolute B***er to do
Now beginning to get a bit stressed that the summer camp is looming. Update, grabbed a couple of hours in the workshop this afternoon. The forks were
VERY BLOODY TIGHT in the yolks, so much so that I had to devise a
way of trying to open the yolks a little. I put a flat piece in the expansion slot then
screwed a bolt into the THREADED half of the yolk up against the flat openeing
the yolk diameter as I tightened it up. STILL I had to beat the pooh out of the
forks to get them out. Measured them and they were at 40mm dead on, the leading
links were at 40.3mm, pooh, how do I get those in? Removed the paint from the
tops, back to 40.08mm and wound my yolk opening bolts in untill I felt they were
ABOUT to strip the threads, much use of my trusty 4lb hammet to re-insert them
in place of the teles and all is well, just so long as I never need to get them
out that is. What does one do? Get the yolks ‘bored’ out? Heres my attempt at
making the yolks biggerererer!And
only three hours later, shes all together.You
can see how the front end compares to the stock front end on my wifes
cally.Now on stop, other than preparing the wiring and brake pipe
replacement until the paintwork, wheel, front square tyre comes back.
That’s a useful tip actually, I have done things like tap a big screwdriver blade into the gap as a wedge to prise it apart more. (Not limited to fork yokes, necessarily.)
I have done that, right up untill a 600 bandit top yolk snappe while I was trying to get a bent fork out after a crash. OOPS
Er well OK there’s ‘prise’ and then there’s OOPS
really good post and love the sidecar look forward to pics of new paint job
really good post and love the sidecar Â look forward to pics of new paint job[/QUOTE]
heres a question ref brakes. I am split between running a seperate master cylinder for the sidecar brake or to piggy back it from the rear bike brake and de-link the front brake. What would your input be? Assuming many have de-linked the front, how does the master cylinder cope with two calipers?
you need to put a biger capacity master on, origanal was only designd to operate one brake,
The front one I presume?
is an upgraded front m/cylinder available?
The origanal is, more than likely 11mm you will need 15mm or 16mm depending on your grip, of any flavor… I run a 16mm for my linked system on the R/h bar
Warwick in NZ C2012-07-13 02:03:13
I had a long chat with the technical chap at Watsonian when I was considering fitting a brake to my chair. “You would be wasting your time” he advised, all that happens is that you would be locking the wheel constantly.
But if you decide to do it he advised, fit a separate pedal on the left side, Watsonian do in fact produce a kit to do the job.
I took his advice and didn’t bother in the end.
So that’s the reason for a separate chair brake, I did wonder
Eres an update, these posts are from my ADV Hacks forum build thread back in september…Well, again, slow here as the painter is busy and housey stuff like
building my lad a playhouse etc means not much happening. Anywhoo.
In the bucket of fittings, the chair came from an identical bike, was a
mystery plate. Well it turns out it was a bracket plate for the lower
front mount, the eyebolt is located below the exhaust downpipe and the
plate is secured by the front engine bolt. However, on removing MY
engine bolt had a 12mm fine thread whereas the plate was tapped out at
m12 x 1.75, quite a course thread. I managed to get a piece of 12mm bar
which I had to file a taper onto, surprised how hard it was to get a
course 12mm thread started, memory fails me from when I did this kind of
This pic shows where I PLANNED to have the lower front BUT the double
arm would not reach from its chair chassis mount. This is what lead to
the plate identity discovery.
Having the exhaust so close to the plate means a nut on the outside was
not possible so cutting the bolt off and filing it with a taper gave a
slight recess which could be filled with weld.
The long bolt goes through the front of the crankcases and is notorious for seizing in place.
This is now painted and in situ, shows how far away my assumed location is now obviously not where the LAST setup had it.
Moved the swing arm onto the front holes, as per the recommendation of a chap on here.
The 135-15 is now in the rear and the avon is now in the front. Waiting
for the painter is driving me nuts so all wiring is now complete and
tested, the dip and high beam is 30amp relay fed, I cannot mate up the
bike and chassis yet as the rim is at the painters preventing me from
getting the chassis height set. The fancy goodridge hose kit with SS
ends etc is not long enough, I have taken the front lines to PIRTEK
hoses who are duplicating them PLUS 200mm, hopefully the 8inch increase
will suffice, I guessed 6 but best to be safe I guess.
Now I wait.