Hi folks,
I have a tyre with the metal bands showing through so have decided to remove the wheel and take it to the garage for a tyre change rather than ride it there.
Before I remove my rear wheel for the first time, I thought it might be worth asking for some advice. I am only used to chain drive and the shaft drive looks a bit intimidating.
I have a rear paddock stand that lifts the rear wheel a few inches and seems secure enough, or would it be better to use a jack and a block of wood under the sump to lift it higher? I read that this is possible if the bike is supported either side. I am just worried about damaging the sump.
Also while I’m on here, is there a certain order I should undo any other bolts besides the spindle?
Many thanks.
The V11 sump is NOT flat tae a look it is V shaped so a block under the sump will have one on it’s side real quick
I lift the V11 le Mans using 2 axle stands under the footrest hangers (Pork Chops)
Undo the brake caliper
Loosen the wheel nut on the right
Then undo the pinch bolt
Fully undo the wheel nut and gently tap out the spndle
While you are at it check the rear wheel bearings.
In Leics area I find Tyres from Twiggers are within a few quid of the online places and you can book , ride in the bike they do the rest …easy.
IF you have a local dealer check they may be very very compeditive Mark sure is.
The rear wheel removal IS described in the manual, if you don’t have one download one from the “Greg Bender” site
The bevel box etc all stays in place so it is fairly easy to do as long as the bike is supported
DO check the wheel bearings or get someone experienced to, there was an issue of the bearing spacer being a tad too short and loading the bearings when the spindle tightened. Was around 2001 though so should have been sorted if there was a problem, but I’d still take a close look. Take a look at the rear pads whilst you there too,and spray some molycoat or similar on the splines for the bevel box too. Have you ever greased the u/j’s on the driveshaft? Check them for wear.
What tyres you buying? stickier the better on a V11…
I use an Abba stand on a hydraulic bench with a removable plate to facilitate dropping the wheel out rather than reversing it passed the number plate.
The tyre will come passed the bevel box with the tyre deflated. However it will require some manipulation so make sure the bike is well supported.
[QUOTE=Cabernet] I use an Abba stand on a hydraulic bench with a removable plate to facilitate dropping the wheel out rather than reversing it passed the number plate.
The tyre will come passed the bevel box with the tyre deflated. However it will require some manipulation so make sure the bike is well supported.
[/QUOTE] yes good point, deflate the tyre as there little clearance…
just bought a pair of mich pilot sports for mine, yet to fit them though…bargain at £140inc
Thanks a lot folks, I think I can just about manage that, I’ll let you know how I get on. I’ll get the tyre guy to ok the wheel bearings. I am wondering about the shaft drive too but I guess there will be lots of play if there is excess wear. Also been told not to use certain types of grease- What’s all that about then!adrian2013-07-30 23:40:35
My local (non-Guzzi) dealer quoted me £200 for Conti Road Attacks and included wheel removal and fitting. (I’m assuming they’ll put them back on as well…!). Best interweb price was £165 plus carriage, so local dealer gets my custom.
Watch out for the little spacer between the drive box and wheel, and remember to grease the axle or it won’t want to come out again.
Sorry but I am never one for these here “sticky” supposedly tyres, the vast majority of road riders NEVER get them warm enough to really notice them.
The V11 Le Mans has Z6 Roadtec Metzlers on it and do fine in all weathers with reasonable wear rate.
I could not afford the quick wear so called sticky tyres nor have I ever needed them As one very goor racer once pointed out the basic sports touring tyre will be better that what HE raced with only a few years ago and that 98% + of road riders would never really use the benefits of the quick wear sticky tyres UNLESS you are using them for track days.
In short why waste your money on for most people is a gimmick. There was a supplement in MCN recently on this very subject…
I have used a paddock stand before ok, or axle stands under the frame between gearbox and footrest plates but now use a scissor type motorcycle jack at the gearbox/footrest frame.
Remove R-clip and undo locating bolt for rear caliper mount (I have experienced one seized solid, had to use heat inpact wrench and rattle gun to remove, plenty of copper grease on reassembly and only nip up tight ensuring R-clip is in place).
Undo spindle nut, when half off use persuasion tool to get spindle moving. Remove nut and use large screwdriver/ socket extension bar or anything suitable to drive spindle out, or if it is playing nice you can take the weight of the wheel with your left arm and pull the spindle out.
Remove caliper with mount from disk.
Pull wheel of rear drive (if drive splines have been nicely greased it should pull off with little effort.
Maneuver the wheel out between left hand silencer and rear mudguard. I have never had to deflate the tyre.
Hunt around the floor for the spacer that has dropped out and rolled away.
Refitting is the reverse of removal. Grease spindle and splines. Grease rear drive needle bearing this will also hold the washer in place.
Spindle though swing arm.
spindle into rear drive ensuring washer in place
spacer onto spindle as it exits inside of drive
wheel on, push spindle through wheel
brake caliper on (pads replaced if necessary) push spindle through caliper mount
through swing arm
washer and nut- torque 12kgm /87lb ft/117 nm
caliper mount locating bolt and r clip
Things to check while wheel out.
wheel bearings- stick thumb or fat finger in and turn, they should feel totally smooth any notchiness/grinding replace.
Needle bearing in outer edge of rear drive - these are a known problem. There should be a large washer between the bearing and swing arm, it may have droppedout when the wheel was removed. Again turn the central bearing race by thumb or finger. You may find the bearing does not move at all. It is not an immediate problem as the bearing does very little but may need addressing in the futute. (Bearings can be sourced elsewhere at a fraction of the guzzi prices)
Drive shaft. The drive shaft is in two halves, make sure that these are aligned correctly , there should be painted marks on each half where they join that should line up, but it has been known for these to be marked when mis-aligned so just visually check that the uj’s are in line with each other.
If you are planning on doing the full works it could be the time to grease the drive shaft.There are 3 grease nipples, one in the centre of the shaft and one in the middle of each uj. Th front one can be a right front bottom to get at. I had to heat and bend the rigid tube of my grease gun to get it to fit. Contact me of search the v11lemans forum if you require more info.
Rear shock mounts and swing arm bearings. The lower eye on the sachs rear shock has been known to crack.With bike supported under centre area (load off swingarm) Remove bolt inspect lubricate and clean. With shock disconnected check swing arm, grab swing arm and try and move in all directions there should only be up and down movement with no notchiness.
If clutch fluid needs replaced this can be easier with the rear wheel out and also the rear shock reservoir below the l/h throttle body removed.HaydnR2013-07-31 12:53:26
Yes more details please …
Mike H2013-07-31 15:44:02
If you miss out the little spacer the wheel wont spin.And whilst you are wondering why the wheel wont spin you notice the little spacer on the garage floor.Ah so.
[QUOTE=guzzibear] Sorry but I am never one for these here “sticky” supposedly tyres, the vast majority of road riders NEVER get them warm enough to really notice them.
Â
The V11 Le Mans has Z6 Roadtec Metzlers on it and do fine in all weathers with reasonable wear rate.
Â
I could not afford the quick wear so called sticky tyres nor have I ever needed them As one very goor racer once pointed out the basic sports touring tyre will be better that what HE raced with only a few years ago and that 98% + of road riders would never really use the benefits of the quick wear sticky tyres UNLESS you are using them for track days.
Â
In short why waste your money on for most people is a gimmick. There was a supplement in MCN recently on this very subject…[/QUOTE]
All I can say is I fitted a pair of ‘soft’ compound tyres and they transformed the bike…so as the V11 is only used a few hundred miles a year the trade off in faster wear v confidence they give is worth the higher running costs. When I out with pals on GSXRs and CBR 600s I need every bit of confidence I can get to fight back around the corners!
If you can use them great, me, I don’t have friends with Jap bikes, that can ride that well that i need to bother
Everyone has differing riding styles, mine kinda suits the Guzzi as I learned on older Brit Bikes in the era weeeel before the “Knee sliding” became popular.
On a Commando you do learn how to counter steer and move the bike more back then the BEST tyres you could get were TT100 or Avon tyres…Bridgestone were a bad word they were lethal in the wet, as were Japanese Brakes.
Maybe 'cos I am an old Git I just don’t go that quick
Thanks for alerting me to spacer-I did happen to notice it roll away on the floor along with the outside spindle washer.
I am curious to know how easy it will be to line it up onto the spindle when I get the wheel back in place but I am hoping it will be self evident as I go along.
I am also wondering how much grease to pack in before assembly as there wasn’t a large amount on that big drive cog when I removed the wheel.
I got away with using a standard paddock stand after releasing the brake calliper bolt first and removing the number plate to get enough clearance for the wheel to squeeze through.
I am starting to understand why some describe Guzzi engineering as quirky!
You’re doing it wrong, make THEM wait for YOU
So, what tyres fall into the’sticky’ bracket then?
My apologies - unintentional hijacking of thread - sorry!
The spacer doesn’t need lining up as such, just slide it onto the spindle as it comes through the drive before fitting the wheel. Just a glob of grease on the the end of your finger is ample,just enough to coat the splines rather than pack them.
Here is another lil’ problem. When I greased the middle nipple on the shaft. As I am pumping the gun, magically the shaft extends itself by about two inches. Now I didn’t expect that. Someone please tell me this is no big deal!