Here. Dizzy tool
guzzibear2013-03-29 20:46:58
I got the proper special tool for this, a long reach âTâ bar with offset ring spanner bit on the end. Got it from Motomecca + some other special tools but must have been >20 yrs ago. The long black thing below - the thing is, can insert and use it with the tank still on! But perhaps not while engine running, but nearly. Anyone whose any good at welding tube together could make one maybe?
I have ordered a set of crows foot spanners via Amazon. Should be here soon so I hope to be able to go the timing with the engine running. The main issue is getting the engine to run nice and steady so I can do that, this is like Catch 22. I need to set the timing right to get smooth running in order to set the timing!!! Doh.
I can then sort out the carbs.
Have to be done âstaticâ then, canât see how else if not good enough to run. Always used to do mine static anyway
Any advice on jetting sizes? My bike has K&N filters rather than the original air box.
All the best,
David.
The crowâs foot spanner is truly excellent.
She is now timed up properly right and left. I cleaned out both carbs and have found the jetting is non-standard: 135 main and 50 pilot. As she has K&N filters I have heard these need bigger jets to work properly.
However, I am ashamed to say I have found I have a dud spark plug!!!
It is new, and works when cold but when the engine warms up it will only work if the HT lead is almost pulled off. Anyone seen this before?
Anyway I dug out a rusty old plug from the bottom of my spares box and she runs properly.
The plug is an NGK BP6ES. I will buy a new one tomorrow. Actually I may get a new pair of Champions if I can find the equivalent. I have had bad experience with NGK plugs on my Bantam.
All the best,
David.
I always these use Iridium plugs used to use paladium they used to last a lot longer in all the two strokes i had cant say i have had any faulty NGK units and in 37 years guess just lucky
Glad that its sorted
Now all we need is SUN
There was an issue with NGK plugs especially off that well known auction site.
That said I had a duff one in a set of 4 from Halfords, took it back with the pack and reciept, they replaced all 4 I only took one plug back
Two new NGK BP5RES plugs now fitted.
She is idling far too rich and I cannot seem to sort it out. I have set the mixture screws at 1.5 turns open.
The jetting is 50 on the pilot and 135 on the main jet.
Any ideas?
All the best,
David.
This is 850 isnât it? 135 main is too rich. Mine is 128. But call it 130. Itâs usually just +10 on main jet, std is 120. Iâm assuming VHB30 carbs. Pilot 60, starter jet 80. Needle V9, 2nd notch from top. As Iâve said before, 1.5 turns out is only a starting point, it may often be different in practice. Haynes says for each carb screw in until engine revs drop (engine must be fully warmed up and idling correctly to start with!), then back out half a turn and thatâs it. Make sure your floats are working correctly, you may also have leaking needle valve(s) making it rich (petrol level in float chamber is too high) HTH
I dunno Gutsibits lists BP6ES for T3 etc., or is that a typo?
I had input from a Guzzisti in US who says the 5 rating runs a bit hotter and so should be better for short runs. Most of mine are like that at the moment. A bit nervous about going far until I am more confident of reliability!
Thatâs fine until youâre doing a long trip on a hot day and it wonât pull properly because youâre getting pinking (pre-ignition) and youâre on a motorway and canât stop. Also, the plug electrodes with erode away faster I would think. Iâd feel safer with the proper grade in.
i use bp6es in my whole fleet
Thanks for the info. No big deal. I can always blow another fiver once I can get the b***** thing running properly!
Until then it is round and round the block.
All the best,
David.
CylvaBirch2013-03-30 20:53:51
the R in the plug is for resistor depending on your ignition type if meant to run with just âESâ you are attempting to use the wrong plugs, In the Northern US States the temps do drop low so a hotter plug will help but in the UK, not likely to help at all really
I have found several old BP6ES plugs amongst all the old stuff I got with the bike. One looks unused.
Obviously the previous owner had issues too!
I hope to try the balancing act tomorrow on the carbs.
All the best,
David.
I have gone back to the non-resistor plugs. NGK BP6ES.
I have cleaned the main jet, pilot jet and the starter atomiser tube. The float seems to close the needle valve. Both needles are V9 and the slides are both 40.
Started her up, nice and smooth with the starter pistons raised.
As she warmed up I dropped them both back down and held her on the twist grip until she was warmed up a bit.
Connected the carb-balancer kit (coiled pipe with little ball bearings inside). Then I screwed both idle screws out and adjusted the cable lengths to get equal work from both cylinders.
Then screwed in the idle screws until she was running at about 1500 rpm.
I disconnected one plug lead and screwed in the mixture screw until I got max revs (nearly closed off actually) and then did the same to the other side. Both plug lead back on and a final setting of the slow running speed to about 1250-1500 keeping an eye on the balance to keep both cylinder working equally.
Result?
Well she sounds much better but when I took her for a run to get properly warm I ended up having to keep her from stalling by blipping the throttle. I have tightened in the idle speed screws as far as they will go without much of a change.
So have called it a day for now.
I am wondering if my float levels are too high and she becomes too rich when slow running for a spell.
Anyway, I will solve this âŚdammit!!!
David.
Back to basics again.
This weekend is âcarburettor weekendâ entailing replacing the float valves, setting the float height properly and changing the needle jets. I will then set it up and balance again. As I have had to screw in the mixture screws so far to maximise idle speed when running on one cylinder I think my float height is too high, I have leaky float valves or both. We will see!
Thereâs something really odd going on here. Note that the idle jets mix with air from an air gallery connected to the intake, if that is blocked then the idle jets will just emit neat petrol, could be that. I would get some aerosol carb cleaner and WD40 and squirt through EVERY orofice to make sure it comes out the other end. Take out every jet and hold it up to a strong light (sunlight) to make sure itâs actually got a hole through it, that sort of thing. Also the atomizer tube contains a piston with a little ball valve in it (VHB30)