Ahhh the suspense, me I would fire it up before fully fitting the cosmetics … cos I couldn’t do with the suspense
No good news I am afraid. I could not wait either. We were due to go out but I ended up in the garage in my good clothes starting her up. Still no spark on right side.
I have swapped over the new coils with associated original leads and the spark is now on the left side. Unless I have a defective new coil it seems like an HT lead is going down under load.
lead or plug mate, take a deep breath and take a looong look at the WHOLE circuit from points to plug.
Just swap the plug leads over NOT the plugs just the leads
Start it…if the problem moves over its the HT if not
THEN swap the plugs andcaps over.
If that sorts it fine if NOT then it HAS to be on the LT side, at least you have proved the mechanics of the cylinder it HAS to be ign side
The fact it swaps over points to the leads/plugs/caps
BY the way make sure BOTH coils get the earth through the cases, I remember putting on new coils and deciding to "isolate them from Vibration with rubber…Dohhhh it isolated them ok …no sparks as the cases need to egt the earth via the frame…did I feel an eeejit or what…
Learning all ze time ya.
Why do the coil cases need to be earthed? On the LT, the positive side is always supplied with 12 volts and the negative side passes through the contact breaker points to earth therefore setting up the field. When the points break the field collapses into the secondary which goes to earth through the plug…doesn’t it.? Or have I got my knickers in a twist?
On the V1000 and the older bikes the coils are held in metal clips that complete an earth return…if you isolate the clamps you get no spark…dunno 'bout y knickers, and if y don’t mind I ain’t gonna check 'em personally like
I suppse the simple answer is.Cos it won’t work unless y do !
Y’ know auto elektrikery IS a dark art and no mistake to work on it many times it has to be “live” I hardly ever resort to a meter. most faults you can see or figure by process of ellimination
Me i would have swapped over ign parts one at a time and found out what was at fault by a process of elimination, mainly cos I usually do not have the money to buy parts hoping they work…but thats me, old fasioned,methodical.
THE fact that the problem has swapped sides suggests something in the circuit and as there are 2 totally independant circuits swapping 1 component at a time should eliminate it.
Some time ago there were faulty plugs out there ESPECIALLY on e-bay…one of those caused me grief by not working and having a cyl down luckily the first thing I swapped over were the plugs the fault shifted …popped in oldplug all was good, new plug faulty… go figure
At least youknow carb side and engine head, valve timing and such is all good so it HAS to be an elektrikery gremlin playin’ witcha
What is the correct way to connect HT leads into the coils please?
I want to do it once (for once!) and do it right.
I am getting sick of the whole thing now.
All the best,
David.
I have my original coils zip tied to the frame rails under the tank, resting on rubber so they’re not earthed there, so they’re not.
The earth in the diagram maybe the sparkplug ???
theone&onlymin
x
maybe it is the rita then mine did not work isolated.
HT leads to coils ??? it depends on the coil …some have a screw internally with a push fit outer, others have a pin …I always take off the outer insulation and fold back the inner core so it spreads then on mine there is an acorn shaped screw on cap, old ones had a push on rubber cap.
Elektrikery can be a bit of a grind especially if you are not good wit it heck go into any auto workshop and say elektrikery fault and see the mechanics duck for cover, take sharp intakes of breath.
You have to be
Patient
Logical
Methodical
and spend 3x more time LOOKING at it than doing anything
You will get there bud had you been closer I would have popped over and helped you with it, takes me longer to explain than to do many things
the primary side has power to one side and the other side of the primary is earted via pointss etc, the high tension side is one side to the spark plug and the other side of the high tension side is earthed to complete the circuit. I have only had one ignition system that the high voltage side was not earthed and that was a 4 cylinder with a waised spark set up one cylinder sparked from centre electrode to the earth one and at the same time the other cylinder sparked from outer electrode to centre to complete the high voltage circuit
has the bike got 6v coils? and if so have you got the 12v feed going in to the top coil (i have just had this problem on my cali 3 948cc) i had managed to dislodge the live feed from the coil. the problem was that the live feed was a brown&creme whire that suplied live feed to the sidstand cut out switch and the ignicion coil. i did not know this so put the whire back on the plus terminal of the bottom coil, the bike ran perfectly on one coil and one cylinder and by awaping the HTleads around i could get the other pot to fire up but not both. i finaly gave up and phoned alan osborne (ao services) and he put me right.swaped the brown&cream lead back to the positiv on the top coil and its working perfectly. PS dos one coil get hot and one stay cold/lukewarm thats whot was hapening on myn, and by the way it cost me a new set of coils a set of plugs and a set of ht leads. just to find out i had been a numti i hope this helps, all the best mick"
The original coils on my SPIII (magneti marelli) had plastic cases, and were held in brackets covered with foam, so no way did they need earthing. Later a Rita system was fitted with a Dyna twin output coil, which also had a plastic case.When this failed I fitted two 6v coils in series, both had metal cases, but were still fitted in the clamps lined with foam.
Brian UK2013-03-24 12:02:32
Latest update: bike is running on both cylinders now. One of my brand new coils is faulty.
I have reinstalled the one that I thought was ok from before and she is running like a good’un.
Now to sort out the timing and then the carburettors.
Thanks to everyone for their endless patience!
David.
Well done bud, … if it is running well does the timing need “sorting” check it before doing anything at all mate same with the carbys, good info on carb tuning on the AIGOR site, there is a link in our links section above.
Just been out to buy a new strobe gun from Halfords. I have had the last one more than 25 years and it has died on me with all this use. This one can tell me how many degrees of advance I really have. That should prove useful when I am trying to time it up statically and not alter anything whilst doing up the stupid clamp screws that are only accessible to weird midget children with six fingers and reversible thumbs!!!
Well it is Italian!
Congrats
I bought a curved 13mm spanner from Draper.
Did the job though took some time.
Paul at Corsa Italian has shown me the Guzzi special tool. It is a slim type 13mm ring spanner set up like a crows foot spanner.
I will try to get something similar I think. At present I end up removing the carburettor on the right bank when I do the timing.
All the best,
David.
I have a very long reach 13 mm spanner that I heated and bent a wee bit and it reaches throu to it. Mind I still then have issues with THAT GAWDAMNAWFULPAPERF***INGASKET There that feels better now!
I eventually fitted Lucas Rita and forgot all about it.
About 1991.