Was out for a blast in the sun. Pulled away from a junction changing up to second clutch lever felt loose or easier to pull. Slowed, dropped into first to stop and investigate. Found clutch wouldn’t disengage. Had to stall it to stop it.Â
Got neutral easy enough & Â pushed to roadside. Found cluch lever much lighter to operate than usual. Checked and master cylinder is full, but popping into second (motor off) I couldn’t disengage clutch to push bike forward.
No choice but to get out the RAC. Home now, bike on lift ready to begin investigation. Â Suspect the clutch actuator has failed somewhere past the slave cylinder. Â Anyone else had this? Any suggestions?
Can I get to the clutch without dropping the motor?
I had the very same happen on my cali 3. in my case I had adjusted the clutch free play up and had not left enough freeplay at the leaver, resulting in the actuating rod touching the clutch endplate and gradualy whering the actuating rod away and shattering the thrust bering, resulting in the clutce lever feeling lighter but not disengaging. the good news is it was only the rod and bearing that needed replacing and adjusting the clutch proply. the bad news dealers wanted upwards of £700 to do the job, I did it myself and 16hrs later I knew why it cost so mutch. you do not have to drop the engine out but you do have to crab the frame ( if its a tonti ) look in the teck or serch crabin the frame on line. best of luck mick, pps let us know how you get on,
Gulp! Hope its not that but if it is , I’ve got co!d times and a warm garage  to play with it… Gonna try bleeding clutch out to see if that works before tearing it all down… Scary!Â
Bled clutch, still won’t disengage. Lever pressure feels same but now makes an audible clunk at the actual clutch when releasing lever. This clunk can be felt in lever…
could be the bearings breaking up in the thrust race
or the pivot seized solid in the gearbox end case ?
can you get some one to operate the lever while you have a look at the slave cylinder
worst case scenario clutch plate centre failed
a new learning curve, or ring Nigel at NBS he is a God in my book when it comes to fixings transmission problems
Have a similar problem with my V11. Lever went back to the bar with no pressure then the feel would come back. so thought it was the master cylinder seals, changed out the master cylinder now clutch is slipping or not engaging/disengaging at times. I think the clutch is jamming on the splines due to wear on splines ( but that’s just a guess). Anyway its going to be a b***ache to fix (engine out job). So it is sitting at the back of the garage till i get some parts together, thank god for Honda’s  Let us know how you get on Flymo.Â
Apart from the Swearing and skinned knuckes it will be fun for most of the Winter - Whilst waiting for parts no doubt…
Cheers Buzz, a nice thought though thank you.
I am doing my homework prior to getting stuck in and ripping bits off and will call Nigel B for advice - wallet says Its gotta be a do it yourself learning curve fix…
Can dropping the motor and pulling off the graerbox to get to the clutch be done with bike on its Centre stand or is redneck ingenuity required? Anyone know? I read if I take certain mounting plates off the biker falls off its centrestand - but that these could be done one at a time do I really need a hoist?
Can I hire a swingarm pin ring tool and clutch spring centre & pusher tool or do I have to buy them (new, secondhand?) Any sources recommended? Anyone want to sell me any?
Is there a better manual available than the NTX one I downloaded off the net (good though it is and for free - Wow! )…
If this is a Tonti framed bike you have to “crab the frame” as Buzz said.
Chock up engine sump then strip down back end of bike until only the frame (mostly) and forks is left, which can then be tilted forward by hingeing on on the front engine mounting bolt. (Requires front wheel out.)
Note the lower frames rails also need to be removed, and when you take the gearbox bolt out the mainstand will fall apart. So sump needs chocking enough to raise mainstand feet off the floor.
Then gearbox can be removed.
Clutch only needs centring tool IF you’re going to take it apart, may not come to that.
Does  Stelvio have a Tonti frame?  It has no lower frame rails so if I strip the bike back end off with the motor jacked & chocked up to get the centre stand off the deck with the front wheel out I should be able to tilt the frame up pivoting on the front engine bolt (if it aint siezed) to get the gearbox out and access the pesky clutch in situ. …
Exhaust, tank and engine head support bolts have to come out of course. Â This will require extensive photographic recordingÂ
You can use a spare old gearbox spline to centre the clutch, they wear so loads of folk have them, see if anyone near you has one. I have not needed any other special tools to remove and replace the clutch.
You can crab the frame it is highly recommended on here, but I have never tried it. I have always lifted the frame off the engine, you do have to disconnect all wires and some pipework but you don’t have to take off the front wheel as you do if you crab the frame. Whatever you prefer. There have been posts on here before about crabbing frames.
No it isn’t a Tonti frame, so no lower rails, so is using engine/gearbox unit as a stressed member, looks like. You hint it’s got a mainstand, what does it bolt onto? Can’t see one on Stelvio’s in any web photos.
I’ll have a look at what centre stand bolts to / through - it came as standard. Â I’d show a picture but I dont know how to yet…For such a heavy bike the stand is real easy to use. Step on it and hoik, and up she comes…
Its been a while due to family and work traumas but I finally got the motor detached from the Frame - not the same as getting it out of the frame… This instructions say at this point lower motor out of frame - not possible as the welded-on bracket that carried footrest, rear brake M/cyl etc fouls the drive shaft boss and no matter how far back I get the frame over the motor it wont clear it.
Can’t get the gearbox off in situ (can I?) so I’m stymied. Anyone ever got a Stelvio motor out? What is the trick ? Am at wits end - Do I have to take of the Alternator to get clearance to allow the motor to go far enough forward in the chassis to clear the bloody bracket?
 Let us know how you get on Flymo.Â
