Are you saying you have a washer on the nearside too along with the spacer? This should not be the case.
According to my V50 mk2 manual it states that from working from the offside towards the nearside along the spindle it should be as follows…speedo drive, washer, bearing, spacer, bearing, washer, spacer, washer, nut…so that’s what I have on it at the moment. Can’t tell you what page or illustration number as I am at work until later.
The Stein Dinse parts diagram on their website, below, is the same as what is in my workshop manual…part #8…Stein-Dinse GmbH Ersatzteillisten which is the same, incidentally, as the Parts Manual .pdf I have from Teo Lamers. However, I have another diagram that shows something different…part #25…
Part number 25 is a sleeve, from memory about 10mm, that goes inside the speedo drive, part number 8 is a thin spacer, about 3-4mm, that goes between the speedo drive and the wheel bearing.
Thanks Doug. Ah, I thought #25 was a spacer…I was kind of hoping it was as it might be the answer I was looking for. So it would seem that my washer, although not as thick, is in the right position. I shall be going to look at a V50 Monza MK3 tomorrow which I am praying will give me some clarity…Thanks Keith! My thought is that there should be some kind of spacer on the offside to prevent the spindle trying to pull through when tightening the spindle nut up which may be pulling the forks together in some way, reducing clearances. Just a thought…I am no engineer…clearly.
The above implies Mk III, spindle nut on the right. But your 1st pic shows it’s version with nut on the left? It certainly seems you’ve got a washer/spacer missing so sliders are pulled together at the bottom so binding on discs, in fact I can convince myself that I can see the forks are closer together at the bottom in your 1st pic. Or could just be an photographic illusion…
Which mark V50 is it? I have a Mark 3…there are NO washers between the inner face of the fork-legs, and the spacers.Are the wheel-bearings OK? Just wondering if they are worn, allowing axial movement of the wheel towards the fork leg?Also, once you tighten the wheel up, you need to release the 2 x pinch bolts, one at the bottom of each fork leg, which should self-centre it. I remember getting just this problem, and not having released and re-tightened the pinch bolts. Try that one.Also, check the small spacer next to the speedo drive. Have you got it the wrong way round?
You DEFINITELY have got your caliper mounts the wrong way round! Take the wheel out, rotate the legs 180 degrees, and I think your problems will be sorted.
hook-nose hicks2013-10-11 21:49:46
Be very careful here, the V50II has the nut on the LHS. There is no spacer apart from the washer on the RHS, the wheel spindle is larger diameter at that end and that is what clamps the bearings against the spacer on the LH fork leg.The RH fork leg floats on the spindle and is clamped round the fork leg.Try slacking off the clamp in the RH fork leg and bouncing the front a few times to centre it. See if that then gives a clearance on the disc.
Sorry, just had a look again at the pics. You need to swap the fork legs over, left to right! You have stuck them in the yokes the wrong way round.
Pretty sure that the fork lowers are correct…here is a photo of the bike on the day I picked it up. And this is a photo of the donor bike… The bike/s is definately a Mk2 and the spindle is on the nearside as in the Stein Dinse link.
You have the legs on the right sides. That is exactly like my Mk II.Have you tried centring the RH fork leg by undoing the clamp on the wheel spindle and bouncing it on the suspension to see if that moves the leg away from the disc?
Going to try that this morning. I was sure the fork lowers were on correctly…thanks for making me feel like i am not going mad Brian.
The wheel is out of the bike at the.moment so will be having a good study of it this morning.
Do we think that the very small clearance on the n/s fork and the disc is correct at a couple of mm? And the problem of tightening the spindle nut and the wheel jammed solid are linked to the clearance problem of the o/s fork?
They are very close so not alot of room for error. When I worked on the V50 ttht Nick had I found a cracking nose type fairing on e-bay from a z900 that with Acebars certainly gave it a “look” The seat leads itself to be fairly easily recovered and it has a slight Hump at the back Nick found a rear seat hard cover very similar to the one on the V11 LeMans that fitted made it look nice BUT retained the dual seat should he need it.
For the front fork issue make sure you have the correct spacers then do as Brian suggests. One +ve about the close running wheel is that it makes it easy to fit an electronic speedo/dash as the magnet needs to be close to the pick up as it passes.
Re. the forks, I was going on my Mk3…personally…I think they look ‘wrong’ with the calipers at the front. But…do try tightening the axle nut FULLY, then releasing both pinch bolts to see if it re-aligns.
Are you using the original yokes? There are several different widths of big block yokes ( as I found out to my cost!!)
Apologis re. the forks…the calipers DO indeed go at the front, on V50 Mark 2’s…and at the back on V50 Mark 3’s.
Yes the yokes are correct for the bike. Going to try and recentre…maybe i can take both washers out?
There should be a spacing washer under each caliper mounting boss, too. That would move the calipers out a touch.
Are they the original yokes that game with the bike or replacements